Re: Windshield stuff, gas?

[STEADIRIC@aol.com]

>Comment # 1:
>>My qualifications to comment are that in September, I installed the 
>>single-bulb "euro" type lights in my 87 4kq, replacing the stock 
>>US spec housings and bulbs.  I upgraded the wiring,installed relays,
>> and put in  80/100w H4 bulbs.  The differences before and after 
>>are *quite* noticeable.
>>
>Answer:
>Congratulation, I believe you, I am not there to judge it, all I am telling
>you is to try a 55/60 watt bulb, try it side by side and you might discover
>that >extra wattage does not equate more light< that is my point!!!!!!  

Bzzzzttttttttt.  Sorry Avi but your WRONG.  I shoot movies for a living 
and have ways of testing that, which I have.  With the Euro's light 
output is increased when when higher wattage's are used.  In addition 
because of the euro lamps pattern, all that additional light stay's where 
it's supposed to be.


>Comment # 2:
>>The upgraded wiring allows (nearly) all of the voltage to reach the
>>bulbs.  When I cut into the stock harness, I was rather shocked to
>>discover the gauge of the wire, to be generous, *might* be 20 ga.
>> Mine is now 10ga.
>>3)  The color, and covering power of the light is significantly
>>improved. I attribute this to a 50% increase in the wattage (and 
>>thus candlepower output) of the bulbs.
>>
>Answer:
>Totally irrelevant to my point, if you comment on my post, restrict
>yourself to the subject.

Lighten up Avi..... This is revelant info.

>Comment # 3:
>>Mr. Meron is internally inconsistent with his statement above.  He first
>>states that the difference is in light beam control,
>Answer:
>when I refer to light beam control, I mean the design and the shape of the
>prism, you just don't stick a higher watt bulb and think that because you
>have increased wattage you have a better light, prisms are designed to
>accommodate a specific bulb size, admittedly some times if the bulb (to
>begin with) is under size you might get a small improvement, but most of
>the time (with very few exceptions) IT IS NOT THE CASE!  

Ah.........  To bad you don't know what your talking about Avi....  
headlamp design has NOTHING to do with the wattages involved.  Just 
filliment placment in a X,Y,Z plane  The optics do not "Know" what lamp 
your putting there.  Physics is Physics.....

>Comment # 4:
>>then says that additional wattage only blinds other drivers.  If the beam
is 
>>controlled, and the wattage is increased, the pattern on the road will
become
>>brighter
>Answer:
>Bernie, Bernie, what am I going to do with you......... do you always drive
>around with the same amount of fuel, do you ever carry anything in your Q?
>do you ever have any passengers? did you aim your lights the PROPER way, do
>you ever go over speed bumps and on, and on, every time one of the factors
>above is not in optimum condition you are sticking your high power beam in
>the face of other drivers!!!!!!! that is not nice Bernie, if you will check
>and see, may be you will blind the other drivers with only 55/60 watt?

As Long as the lamps are aimed correctly this is a moot point.

I will say this again.

With PROPER beam control (Euro's for example) you will see benifits when 
you use higher wattage bulbs, with NO Additional glare to on comming cars 
(White is white, once a point source is over 8 times brighter than the 
surrounding area YOU CANNOT tell if it is any brighter No matter how much 
light you put in there.) 

All of the arguments that I have seen here on bulb wattages have been 
wrong....  If more wattage/lumens in the bulb does not make a difference 
they why has the HID (Xenon or gas discharge) been invented...  With that 
technology you get a bulb that has 4.4 times the output of a conventional 
headlamp tube, a 35w HID bulb put's out the equivlent to 154 
watts.........

Case Closed.


Later!


Eric Fletcher S.O.C.
'87 5KCSTQIA2RSR2B
St. Louis, MO

STEADIRIC@aol.com