Re: Plea for info on 885ks brake job

["Graydon D. Stuckey" <graydon@apollo.gmi.edu>]

On Sun, 19 Jan 1997, Scott Gongwer wrote:

> After cruising the quattro archives I have uncovered many people's
> pleas for info on how to do a brake job on Audi's, but very limited
> replys (probably due to the complexity of brake jobs, by model and
> part vendor).  I have an 88 10valve non-turbo, front drive, auto trans,
> 5ks.  I have the Haynes manual which covers brakes, but tries to inclue
> several models (girling, teves) in one terse section.

It's not that tough at all really.

> Seeing that Audi brake jobs are almost always $7-800.00, and need to be
> done about every 2 years, I would like to train myself to do this job.

I don't think they are that bad, but then, I always do this stuff myself, 
and I make sure I get a good deal on parts.

OK, here goes for a "Reader's Digest" brake job primer...

Disassembly

1.	Jack up car, place jack stands under chassis
2.	disconnect battery (that's what all the books say anyway...  
Personally, I _NEVER_ disconnect the battery, not for anything...  :-)
3.	Remove the wheels
4.	Remove the bolts which hold the caliper to the mounting bracket
5.	Remove the caliper, remove the pads, and use a big c-clamp to 
push the piston back into the caliper.  BE careful not to damage any 
rubber parts.  For the rear brakes, you need to turn the piston back in 
by placing a big allen wrench into the indentation in the piston.  I use 
a big Torx bit (like a # 55, I think) which happens to fit in there 
pretty well.
6.	If you're replacing the rotors, or turning them, remove the caliper 
mounting braket so that the rotors will come off.
7.	Replace any rubber parts that look doubtful

You are now ready to reassemble.

1.	Place rotor back onto hub. (I use a spare M14x1.5 bolt to hold the 
rotor inplace sometimes.
2.	Bolt caliper mounting bracket back onto hub, using locktite or 
new bolts.
3.	Place new pads into caliper with the blue anti-squeal gook 
between the pad and the caliper to prevent squeal (Obviously)  This will 
prevent the brakes from squealing.  Maybe   :-)
4.	Place caliper into caliper mounting bracket very carefully, so as 
not to damage the rubber parts (either the old ones, or the new ones you 
just replaced.)
5.	Replace bolts which anchor caliper to bracket, with lots of 
grease in the rubber slide.  Make sure rubber parts are properly engaged 
in mounting bracket and caliper bolts.
6.	Tighten caliper mpounting bracket bolts, and caliper bolts per 
Bentley's torque suggestions (or just reef on them as hard as you 
reasonably can with a 3/8" ratchet.)  (That means "no hernias")  This is 
the time to bleed the brakes if that is your desire.  I'll let someone 
else write that one up
7.	Replace wheel, wheel bolts, and tork to taste. (don't 
forget to remove the little bolt that was holding the rotor on the hub if 
you did that in reassembly step #1.) 
8.	Remove stands, lower car, and check brakes.  Test drive and bed 
in pads per manufacturer's directions.

OK, What have I missed?

HTH.  As they say, this is not cell phone science  :-)

Later, ---------------------------------------------------------- 
Graydon D. Stuckey 	'85 Mazda RX7 GS, no toys 
graydon@apollo.gmi.edu 	'86 Audi 5000 CS Turbo Quattro, has toys
Flint, Michigan USA	'89 Thunderbird SC, lotsa toys