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quattro-digest Monday, 17 February 1997 Volume 04 : Number 288
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
Re: MPG with Mods
Re: MPG with Mods
Re: San Francisco Mechanic
Re: Crank Bolt socket = 27MM
Re: Socket size? for 86 CoupeGT
Result of A6 headlamp upgrade project.
Life With The Turbo 4Q
Message not deliverable
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: QSHIPQ@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 01:35:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: MPG with Mods
In a message dated 97-02-17 00:12:50 EST, you write:
<< All, as rediculous as this sounds I am now getting better gas mileage
than I have EVER gotten with this car. With the mixture set correctly
(Thanks PDQSHIP), and then home-grown ECU mod, I am now seeing 37 mpg on
the higway with the cruise set at 72 mph. Strangely enough though when I
back it down to 68-70mph range, the mileage is cut to about 35 mpg. I am
assuming that this is due to the mixture setting at a given RPM range un
the ECU lookup table. Or could it be more due to the gearing of the
car... Maybe WARATAP's 4.11's would help :) or Graydon's EFI or
PDQSHIP's RS-2, all I need is MONEY!
>>
Before graydon and I can spread too much of this syrup on our pancakes, be
advised, Mr. Bob, that the dash guage accuracy might need some adjustment....
Go the old fashioned way of the miles vs gallons, I think your at least 10
high.... There's an adjustment for that too....
Scott
------------------------------
From: QSHIPQ@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 01:59:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: MPG with Mods
In a message dated 97-02-17 00:28:53 EST, you write:
<< > All, as rediculous as this sounds I am now getting better gas mileage
> than I have EVER gotten with this car. With the mixture set correctly
> (Thanks PDQSHIP), and then home-grown ECU mod, I am now seeing 37 mpg on
> the higway with the cruise set at 72 mph. Strangely enough though when I
> back it down to 68-70mph range, the mileage is cut to about 35 mpg. I am
> assuming that this is due to the mixture setting at a given RPM range un
> the ECU lookup table.
Jeez, Scott, I am seeing 18mpg on a good day! Can you walk me through
the same procedure?
My OXS sensor is still the original one, probably is due for
replacement.
Thanx,
Igor >>
This is in the archives about a year ago..... Don't quote the dash guage,
unless you have personally calibrated it with the odometer vs gallons.... It
usually would make any CAFE fed get giddy.... The best of tuned cars in the
5ktq family under my direct supervision, have gotten 28 highway, 19-21
city.... The extreme chipped and RS2'd car (Carole) gets 32 highway, 21
city, and I assure you the boost is at the barest of minimum (no matter what
she claims).... I consider a 30 number the max for any "reasonable" turbo
5ktq highway, and 21 the max for city.... A box modded 5ktq will not lose
mileage unless you put your right foot down, PDQI has a record of <12mpg for
a tankful of test gas with the monster RS2 Comp+++.... The worst I've seen
with stage II mods and a stock turbo is about 16 city, driven really hard....
A set of the O2 FV is the key to maximizing your mileage, requires a DC or
Dwell meter for the tweek.... Proper plugs, wires, synthetic oil, free flow
air filter, and good gas are all keys in the equation.... The best O2 is
considered a 30k part (claims of 60k from bosch are for N/A cars) for turbos,
my dodge turbo would eat them in <10k, I get about 20K out of the audi turbo
O2, that's it. Remember, the more mods you run (hello bypass valve), the
less your O2 will last. The more fluctuation you get on the O2 FV port,
the worse your O2, IOW, if you are looking for 42DC and you get massive
fluctuation there, the O2 is prolly bad, the newer the O2 the less the
fluctuation.... O2's as they age, get slower to react to exhaust gasses,
showing as more fluctuation on your dwell or DC meter.... That delay on a
stage II box can be "deadly".... A stage II will run O2 lean between
3-4500krpm, you have a bad O2, situation critical....
HTH
Scott
------------------------------
From: Mike Williams <daserde@ucla.edu>
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:07:47 -0800
Subject: Re: San Francisco Mechanic
I recommend Edward Novak. Unfortunately i dont have the humber for him,
as i am now in LA for college, he is in the San Francisco phone beeok.
He is very knowledgeable, and is very honest. He truly knows what he is
doing. Good luck, and I dont have any affiliation with him other than i
go to him exclusively now. He is very, very good. Good luck.
Mike Williams
85 Coupe GT
http://members.aol.com/daserde2
------------------------------
From: QSHIPQ@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 02:29:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Crank Bolt socket = 27MM
In a message dated 97-02-16 23:54:12 EST, you write:
<< > THAT PART IS A 27MM SOCKET, SEARS AVAILABLE, Do not use the 1 1/16, the
> torque you put on that bolt is VERY high, like in the 300ft/lb range, not
> good for fudging sizes..... It's close in a 1 1/16, but hardly where you
Betcha you couldn't tell the difference without looking at what was
stamped on the side. 1.0625 vs 1.0630". Less than 1 1/1000t of an inch.
I wouldn't worry about it myself... don't remember what I used, I'd
have to look in the toolbox ;-).
Orin.
>>
Sure, me, I'd want a 26 if it was possible, this is serious torque, in fact,
there is NO higher torque setting on a q than that 1 bolt..... .0001 is
prolly within manufacturers tolerance, and I would argue the 6 point thing
before the 12, but man, this is a critical life support operation here... I
bit the bullet and just bought the proper audi tool..... Not sure it's a
mute, cuz few have that torque wrench available anyhow (the cheapest I found
it was 300USD).... Don't forget the loctite either..... I can share that I
have tightened at least 3 of these bolts that were incorrectly installed...
Beware of your actions here, they are critical...
Scott
------------------------------
From: Allan Jones <ampj@tiac.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 02:32:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Socket size? for 86 CoupeGT
Doyt W. Echelberger wrote:
>
> My 84-87 Bentley for the 4000 and coupe GT shows a nut under the horn pad,
> and tags it "40 Nm (29 ft-lb)" and I hope this means something to you.
>
> Doyt
Actually, Doyt, I was looking for something else, but now that you
bring that up . . . I should ask my fellow Q listers how important the
torque setting is for a steering wheel nut?!! I feel confident that like
most other adjustments, I can "feel" what's proper. Please elaborate.
Thank you, Allan
------------------------------
From: dmiller@iea.com (Doug Miller)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:44:56 -0800
Subject: Result of A6 headlamp upgrade project.
Upon delivery, our A6 headlamps were found to be a little lacking in output
for the rural driving conditions and long winter darkness in our area. I
was also peeved to own a vehicle whose foglights could only be used when
the headlamps were on (thus rendering them near useless). The following
post details the results of my upgrades and wiring changes.
First off, I went to the Audi dealership right away while the blush was
still on my being a new customer and asked for a photocopy of the headlamp
wiring diagrams. Surprisingly, I got them with little question. They're
labeled "Audi of America, Inc. Service Publications 96-07, pages 1 of 3, 2
of 3, and 3 of 3". Also on the page is "Front and Rear Fog Lights".
First off is changing the wiring so the fogs operate without the headlamps on:
Using a new standard foglight relay, wire it as follows (the relay will be
placed into the auxiliary relay panel next to the existing foglight relay).
The auxiliary relay panel is near the left hood hinge, and has a wire clip
over the removeable cover. Here goes:
#30 - 14ga or greater wire from the remote battery terminal (it handily
unscrews, just watch the wrench end if you live on the edge and have not
yet disconnected the battery). Fuse it, of course.
#86 - light guage wire from an ignition switched wire. I tapped into such
a wire on the relay labeled 214 adjacent to the existing foglight relay,
which is labeled 204. Leave this splice until later, as you will have
another wire to tap in here also and its easier at the same time.
#85 - ground. I used the screw at the bottom of the auxiliary relay panel.
#87 - From terminal S16 on the fuse panel at the dashboard's left edge.
This is the tricky one. Take the lower dash kick panel off, remove the 2
screws holding the fuse panel in place and push the fuse panel into the
dash and downward. Happily, there is enough wire to end up with the entire
fuse panel hanging into the driver's footwell and easily accessible. At
the back of the panel is a protective black plastic cover which slides off
somewhat stubbornly. By the way, before starting this step, I *highly*
recommend disconnecting the battery. Locate the yellow wire on fuse S16 and
cut it. Tape off the end that leads away from the fuse.
Now, put a bright light in the driver's footwell to guide the wire destined
to attach to this yellow wire. You can easily drop it through the bottom of
the auxiliary relay panel with the bright light guiding your way to the
carpet in the footwell. Once you get it into the driver's footwell, splice
it to the remaining end of the yellow wire you've cut so this wire now
connects to fuse S16.
Back at the auxiliary relay panel, pull the existing foglight relay
(labeled 204) out of its connector in the panel. Then release the clips
holding this connector to the panel and pull it up as far as the wires
allow. With some determined fiddling and prying, the purple retainer
holding the individual female terminals in place can be pulled off to allow
the female spade connectors to be pulled individually out of it.
Remove the female spade connector in position #86 by inserting a fine
screwdriver to push the tab back and pull it down out of the connector - it
can be cut and pulled up and out if you haven't the patience. It is the
brown wire with yellow stripe. Tape it off and push it out of the way.
Replace it with another female spade connector and a wire long enough to
tap into the same ignition switched wire I referred to above for terminal
#86 on the new relay. Very simple if you crimp on the female spade
connector, then feed the other end of the wire down into the connector
until the female connector snaps down in. After this is accomplished, snap
the connector's purple retainer back on, shove it back into the panel, and
replace the existing foglight relay #204 back on the panel. (whew)
After you put everything back into place, your foglights will work whenever
the ignition is on. Take that, Feds! Nothing else will be disturbed - the
rear foglight switch still turns the fronts on, they go off when the high
beams are turned on, etc.
I then upgraded the foglights to 85w from 55, the low beams to 85w from 55,
and the high beams to 100w from 60w (I think they were 60). The fogs are
common H1's and the low beams are somewhat less common H3's - both from
PIAA. The high beams are 9005 from Competition Limited in Troy, MI and I
don't know of any other sources.
Having just completed a 3500 mile trip with the upgrades, I have the
following comments:
Foglights - Easily the most dramatic impact. They are actually powerful
enough to be usable now and the beam pattern retains its sharp cutoff.
Low beams - Strong impact. The amount of light is strong enough now to
drive at freeway speeds without leaning toward the windshield and squirming
around in my seat. I was really disappointed initially, given the
reputation of PES design lights like these. One slight negative is that
there is a little too much light on the road in the first car length - a
fault with the original 55w bulbs as well that is slightly increased. The
light beyond this area definitely makes up for it, however. Just thought
I'd mention it.
High beams - Moderate impact. They are notably stronger, but were actually
quite good to begin with. I am now able to regularly make out highway
reflectors 1.6 miles away vs about 1.1 miles with the original bulbs.
Since these were also the most expensive and difficult to find, I'm not
sure the value is there for everyone. But where we live, missing only one
extra deer in a lifetime is worth it.
I am not sure, but the A4 lamps look very similar to mine and the bulb
comments may apply there, also.
The usual disclaimers apply.
Doug Miller
dmiller@iea.com
97A6Q Wagon, 93 LandCruiser w/diff locks (and well used skidplates), 71
LeMans Sport V8 Convertible. Cannondale Super V 900 Comp.
------------------------------
From: Polidori1@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 03:03:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Life With The Turbo 4Q
Life continues to be better (and quicker) with the Turbo 4Q, although that
tear in the intercooler to throttle body hose was rain on the turbo parade.
Geez those hoses are expensive!
Heard about a "bypass" that maintains boost pressure on upshifts - please
tell all . . .
Duane
San Diego
'87 4Q 10V Turbo . . .
------------------------------
From: Administrator@mailgw.sanders.lockheed.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 03:42:13 -0500
Subject: Message not deliverable
quattro-digest Monday, 17 February 1997 Volume 04 : Number 286
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
A4-1.8T
Re: Stuff FS: free, cheap and.....
MPG with Mods
Re: 89 200 Turbo problems
S4 Problems (long)
Wheels for '92 S4
Re: Crank Bolt socket = 1 1/16"
Re: 89 200 Turbo problems
Re: 89 200 Turbo problems
Re: 89 Turbo (driven?) Alternator
Re: Windshield Wiper motor/suggestions needed.
Re: Crank Bolt socket = 1 1/16"
Re: MPG with Mods
Re: Wheels: TSW Stealth vs MSW Type 55
Re: Audi 4k strikes again
Have I warped a rotor?
Re: Crank Bolt socket = 27MM
Re: 5K Q Owners ! some rear suspension info....(medium length)
Re: CQ vs. S4
San Francisco Mechanic
Beru
Re: Why Qwagons rule.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Angela Dupin <dupina@crisny.org>
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 22:36:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: A4-1.8T
how many have the A4 1.8T yet and how much boost does it run stock?
How much can it run safely and how much power does that translate to?
Just wondering about my next Audi....hoping the resale value will
continue in the gutter!
Purely selfish Phil!
- ------------------------------
From: boweb4p0@numen.elon.edu
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:06:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Stuff FS: free, cheap and.....
Good lord Huw, Sounds like you have more stuff than many of the people
down here in rural NC. Although I would imagine yours isn't strewn about
your front yard on display with hand written "4 sale" signs on
everything!!!!!!!
- - -B
_______________________________________________________________________
Bryan Bowen * Elon College, NC * 910.538.3702 * boweb4p0@numen.elon.edu
International Business Major/Spanish Minor
'86 CGT Comm. Ed. (deceased)
'84 GMC Starcraft Conversion Van (My Mom's OK)
Looking for that "priced right" Coupe Quattro
- ------------------------------
From: "Dupree, Robert A." <rdupree@sidley.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 97 22:08:00 PST
Subject: MPG with Mods
All, as rediculous as this sounds I am now getting better gas mileage
than I have EVER gotten with this car. With the mixture set correctly
(Thanks PDQSHIP), and then home-grown ECU mod, I am now seeing 37 mpg on
the higway with the cruise set at 72 mph. Strangely enough though when I
back it down to 68-70mph range, the mileage is cut to about 35 mpg. I am
assuming that this is due to the mixture setting at a given RPM range un
the ECU lookup table. Or could it be more due to the gearing of the
car... Maybe WARATAP's 4.11's would help :) or Graydon's EFI or
PDQSHIP's RS-2, all I need is MONEY!
Bob Dupree
'87 5000CS Quattro Now With IMPROVED 1.95bar
- ------------------------------
From: boweb4p0@numen.elon.edu
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:18:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 89 200 Turbo problems
On the subject of Stalling when the oil filler cap is removed, I have an
observation and subsequent question.
When I was selling cars this past summer, a customer of mine took the oil
filler cap off the engine of a mazda mx-3 and it didn't stall. He
mentioned something about checking for "blow-by" or something. Is this
engine different (it was the 4-cyl)?
- - -Confused in NC
_______________________________________________________________________
Bryan Bowen * Elon College, NC * 910.538.3702 * boweb4p0@numen.elon.edu
International Business Major/Spanish Minor
'86 CGT Comm. Ed. (deceased)
'84 GMC Starcraft Conversion Van (My Mom's OK)
Looking for that "priced right" Coupe Quattro
On Sun, 16 Feb 1997 QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 97-02-16 16:41:12 EST, you write:
>
> << Subj: Re: 89 200 Turbo problems
> Date: 97-02-16 16:41:12 EST
> From: lmulieri@zoo.uvm.edu (Louis A. Mulieri)
> To: QSHIPQ@aol.com
> CC: EBROWN-SD@postoffice.worldnet.att.net, quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>
> Will the same thing happen if you loosen the oil filler cap?
> Berthann
> 5000cstq, 125k and counting
> >>
> No, the car should stall ALWAYS when you pull the oil cap off.... Here is
> the secret. The idle stabilizer circuit can compensate for the oil dipstick
> pull, the engine will lose rpm, then the ISV will recover.... If there is
> another leak (or you pull the oil cap) you have created too much of an air
> leak, and the ISV can't compensate for it.... Car stalls
>
> HTH
>
> Scott
>
- ------------------------------
From: Bfuson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:19:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: S4 Problems (long)
I'm running into two potential problems, and one quirk that I'd like to run
by folks. The car is a '92 S4, no mods, yet.
First the quirk: Dash brake light. I've noticed that after sitting for a
couple of days, if I release the parking brake immediately after starting the
engine, the idiot light stays on for usually 3-5 seconds and then goes out.
The parking brake isn't binding so I conclude that the light is warning me
about low brake pressure.
I've gone through three iterations with the dealer on this (I bought the car
used at 48K, now has ~80K miles). First time I began complaining when this
occurred after the car had set for 6-8 hours. For my efforts, I received a
new accumulator (bomb), and tightened hoses. That seemed to fix the problem
for about 10K miles, then it began happening again. Conclusion, the new
accumulator was bad, so I received another one. I've now put on about 8K
since that happened, and it only occurs after setting for a few days.
None of my other Audi's (86 4K, 91 100, 91 90) have this problem. As I
understand it, Audi dropped the higher pressure Vickers pump driven system in
92 and went to a lower pressure brake system. Is this a normal side effect,
and one that I shouldn't worry about? In all the instances I've tried the
full pedal in rapid succession test, and have never gotten the light to
flash.
The only good news in this is that: the brakes aren't weak, and all the
repairs were under Audi warranty. Praise and thanks for small
favors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Problem 1: When driving I hear a noise that sounds like liquid flowing
through a restricted passage. Sound originally seemed to come from under the
passenger dash, but wasn't very loud. Now it's back, but louder and seems to
come from the rear of the car. The sound can't be heard at idle or under
hard acceleration. Usually hear it at constant speed or when decelerating.
The sound definitely changes in volume with the gas pedal movement. It also
occurs in any gear. Putting it in neutral and increasing engine speed does
not make it reoccur.
The tricky part is that it doesn't always happen. At first I thought about
the fuel pump, but the sound is not metallic or a humming sound (like when I
was loosing the pump on another Audi).
Problem 2. When going over rough roads I get a thunking sound from the front
suspension. I can also feel it through the dead pedal when resting my left
foot. I've had the control arm bushings replaced, and had the dealer look at
the suspension components - said he could find nothing loose or unusually
worn. He did retorque the front struts per a TSB. Maybe of note, this car is
an early S4 and doesn't have the front strut brace. Steering remains tight
and I don't hear the sound at high speed or on normal (for southern Ohio)
roads.
Could this be struts or strut bearings? I've never had a strut bearing fail,
so I don't know how to recognize a failure. I know that replacing the struts
on this car is a very expensive undertaking in parts ($300+ each from Audi)
and labor. Do I have to do the same amount of work to replace a bearing? Is
this a reasonable do it yourself option? Is this the time for a suspension
upgrade with non-Audi parts?
TIA,
Bill
- ------------------------------
From: Bfuson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:19:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Wheels for '92 S4
I need to replace an OEM wheel on a '92 S4. Anyone know of some that are
available? I'd prefer excellent condition, but if that's not an option I'll
seriously consider one that is in good condition (not bent, corroded, etc)
and use the OEM set for winter tires, and get an aftermarket set for summer
and track events.
Thanks, Bill
- ------------------------------
From: shields@tembel.org (Michael Shields)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 04:29:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Crank Bolt socket = 1 1/16"
> The crank pulley bolt socket is 1 and 1/16". I don't know the metric
> size, but I garr-on-tee tht one fits. I bought mine at Sears.
27mm.
> Also
> note: since I am aware the interchange between SAE and metric is not
> perfect on many sizes, I made sure to get a 6-point socket, NOT a 12-
> point.
Sears makes six-point SAEs in that size? They only have the 27mm in
twelve-point.
(checks the Craftsman catalog)
Yeah, that's how it is. Shame.
- - --
Shields.
- ------------------------------
From: e6941tb@gnn.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 21:44:54 -0800
Subject: Re: 89 200 Turbo problems
Mike Miller wrote:
>
> Dealer cost on a wastegate is about $900 and the kkk24 turbo is about $1900.
> In reality, you can find parts much cheaper.
A turbo can be rebuilt under $400 by a number of speciality shops.
When my turbo finally goes, I'll probably ask Scott QSHIPQ to rebuild it
to the RS2 specs. Two hares will be killed with one shot (er two birds
will be hit with one stone for all fellow americans on the list):
1. I'll get a scream mobile in place of the allready fairly quick car.
2. My money will go to a fellow lister, rather than to a scalping
dealer.
Fred, I do suggest that you talk to Scott before you_do_anything with
your turbo!
Just my 2 kopecks.
Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ
- ------------------------------
From: e6941tb@gnn.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:12:53 -0800
Subject: Re: 89 200 Turbo problems
Allan Jones wrote:
> Is that on all engines or just turbo's? I can take the cap off of my
> '86 Coupe GT's I5 and watch the camshaft spin happily around!! I hope I
> don't have a problem!!??! No wise cracks please - Audi related prob.'s
> only ;)
> Allan
Alas, you do, and it is Audi related ;)
Look for a vacuum leak at:
1. Huge rubber boot, that coveres the fuel distributor
2. The T that Scott described
3. Crankcase vent hose.
I once owned a N/A '85 5000s w/KZ engine, wich leaked in all the above
places, one after another.
Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ
- ------------------------------
From: e6941tb@gnn.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:23:35 -0800
Subject: Re: 89 Turbo (driven?) Alternator
Heather & Jeff wrote:
>
> Igor,
> 1. The filter capacitor has no bearing on your problem. If it goes open,
> you stand a chance of increased noise on the radio & stuff. If it goes
> short, well, it won't be that way for long because it will blow like a
> firecracker.
Yeah, I kinda thought so myself, but ran out of possible explanations.
> 4. I don't remember whether Bosch alternators of that vintage have a
> diode trio rotor power up scheme or not. If they do, this is likely
> your problem. (Diode trio is a small pack of three diodes across each
> of the three phases to provide power to the rotor; kind of an archaic
> way of turning the alternator on)
The Stator has 4 wires, coming out of it. One is sloghtly away from the
rest (common?).
The remaining 3 are soldered to 3 diods.
>
> 4. Are you sure that the Fox actually is charging with the Audi reg?
Yes. I install voltmeters and analogue oil pressure gauges in all my
cars.
Thanks for the reply, Jeff.
Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ
- ------------------------------
From: e6941tb@gnn.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:27:05 -0800
Subject: Re: Windshield Wiper motor/suggestions needed.
Heather & Jeff wrote:
>
> Started up the '88 80q and heard a horrible racket coming from the
> dash. Kind of a growling, plus the sound of relays clicking. Opened
> the hood, and discovered the wiper motor was making the noise. I gave
> the wiper switch a nudge, the noise stopped as the wipers made a
> slowwwwwww move across the windshield. Now the wipers have only one
> speed; slowwwwww. (plus I have to nudge the switch to get it to stop
> growling.)
>
> Obviously my wiper motor has bit the dust (or relay? or both?)
>
> Anyway, has anyone tackled rebuilding their wiper motor? Or does
> anyone have any low cost suggestions or sources?
Sounds like your wiper arms are loose on the shafts' splines.
Tighten those 13mm nuts first, Jeff (Bob D'A - not this time, pleez!).
;)
Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ
- ------------------------------
From: e6941tb@gnn.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 21:32:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Crank Bolt socket = 1 1/16"
Al Powell wrote:
> Blaufergnugen (see web page) will rent you the crank pulley
> lock....as soon as I return theirs. They also sent me the wrong
> timing belt so I'm stalled on finishing my timing belt job. (NOTE:
> for 1990 200 owners - there are TWO wimilg belts that year. The
> change is chassis related, and a good parts guy will see it in his
> listing...I got the wrong one.)
Hmm, evidently Blau still haven't straightened up their database.
I had same_exact_problem with their timing belt this past March and upon
returning it specifically told Jim, that they show a 20v belt for a 10v
application on a 200TQ.
Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ
- ------------------------------
From: e6941tb@gnn.com
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 23:32:51 -0800
Subject: Re: MPG with Mods
Dupree, Robert A. wrote:
>
> All, as rediculous as this sounds I am now getting better gas mileage
> than I have EVER gotten with this car. With the mixture set correctly
> (Thanks PDQSHIP), and then home-grown ECU mod, I am now seeing 37 mpg on
> the higway with the cruise set at 72 mph. Strangely enough though when I
> back it down to 68-70mph range, the mileage is cut to about 35 mpg. I am
> assuming that this is due to the mixture setting at a given RPM range un
> the ECU lookup table.
Jeez, Scott, I am seeing 18mpg on a good day! Can you walk me through
the same procedure?
My OXS sensor is still the original one, probably is due for
replacement.
Thanx,
Igor
- ------------------------------
From: Mark Quinn/HNS <Mark_Quinn@notesgw.hns.com>
Date: 16 Feb 97 23:46:27 EST
Subject: Re: Wheels: TSW Stealth vs MSW Type 55
Mark Aaldering writes:
>Now I'm looking at a choice of the TSW Stealth (which I prefer due to
>the lug nuts being covered for cleaning purposes) or the MSW Type 55
>(Which Eric Fletcher had nice things to say about regarding durability
> ... Anybody have experience with either and would care to comment on the
>pros / cons of these choices?
No experience with TSW's, but I had 15" MSW Type 55's on my previous
car (a Honda Civic Coupe EX) with 195/50 tires. I've gotta say I LOVE(D)
the looks of those wheels ... unfortunately, they weren't too robust in my
usage. All of them ended up out of round. Mind you, I did hit a REAL nasty
trough in the road (left by moronic 'road repair' crew) at around 50mph one
night - which I think did most of the damage. Still, they're NICE wheels.
- - -Mark Quinn
- ------------------------------
From: "M Tipton" <miktip@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 22:46:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Audi 4k strikes again
> DEcember 1994 - Overview and Project Goals
> Early 1995 - Glass installation
> April 1995 Euro Headlight Conversion
> May 1995 Wheel and Tire upgrade
> July 1995 Suspension Upgrade
> August 1995 Wheel Bearing replacement
> October 1995 Brake repair and upgrade
> November 1995 Window regulator upgrade
> March 1996 Bushings and suspension
> April 1996 Cambelt and water pump
> June 1996 Air conditioning upgrade
> October 1996 Project update issue
> March 1997 Exhaust system upgrade
>Geez... This sounds more like my schedule of repairs
You have too ask yourself, "How much all this costs in real world
figures?"
Namely because the minute the car gets wrecked, either your insurance
company, or the other persons, will try to "total" the car! (BTDT 4
times)
Even with all the "extras" and repairs being recent- most insurance
companies
have a way around paying you the "replacement value" of the car!
Unless you have
a "special policy" to cover the "classic or show" car! ($$$ +
restrictions)(BTDT)
Now with an 87 4KQ coming in at say $4500 Blue book, this is the most
you can expect to gain from an Insurance company settlement, as the
result of an accident!
Even if your policy covers the costs, you can expect your rates to go
up!
So is it a smart, economical, idea to put sooo much money back into an
"older
car? For the average Joe/Joan, probably not!
For an individual that has the extra finances, (magazine sponsored?),
or is a business owner, sure, no problem!
After all, our auto's are an extension of our personality!
(Even the $800 exhaust systems!) :^\
M
- ------------------------------
From: shields@tembel.org (Michael Shields)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 04:49:32 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Have I warped a rotor?
What are the symptoms of a warped brake rotor? Would they be pedal
pulsations under moderate pressure?
I am running OEM rotors with Metalmaster pads installed 1996-08-10 @
108542 (currently at 117k and change). It seems to me that rotors should
last longer than 8500 miles.
What causes rotors to warp? Did I do something wrong in the brake
job or am I just driving too hard? If it's the latter, should I go to
cross-drilled rotors and if so from who? (It seems a bit silly to have
drilled rotors in the front and drums in the back but if that's what
it takes...)
- - --
Shields.
- ------------------------------
From: orin@netcom.com (Orin Eman)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 20:53:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Crank Bolt socket = 27MM
> THAT PART IS A 27MM SOCKET, SEARS AVAILABLE, Do not use the 1 1/16, the
> torque you put on that bolt is VERY high, like in the 300ft/lb range, not
> good for fudging sizes..... It's close in a 1 1/16, but hardly where you
Betcha you couldn't tell the difference without looking at what was
stamped on the side. 1.0625 vs 1.0630". Less than 1 1/1000t of an inch.
I wouldn't worry about it myself... don't remember what I used, I'd
have to look in the toolbox ;-).
Orin.
- ------------------------------
From: David Weiss <dzweiss@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 22:29:00 -0800
Subject: Re: 5K Q Owners ! some rear suspension info....(medium length)
>I am having a similar noise in my left rear and the links have already
>been replaced.
<SNIP>
>Also, is the tool you called a "ball joint separator" also referred to
>affectionately as a "pickle fork"?
FWIW, when I replaced the links on the '89 200Q, used a pickle fork on
one side and found the incline on that particular fork a bit narrow--
the end of the fork went too far and nicked the sheet metal. On the
other side, used a small (6-inch max spread) 2-arm gear puller. The
bottom of the ball joint "bolt" is hollowed out to accept the pointed
end of the puller. For the tie rods in the front, had to use an 8-inch
puller; if you ever do that, stuff some shop towels over the tie rod
where it comes through the fender, to cushion the tie rod when it lets
go w/ a bang!
Sounds like you won't be replacing the rear links for a while, now.
- ------------------------------
From: Nivi@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 00:02:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: CQ vs. S4
In a message dated 97-02-16 20:23:29 EST, you write:
<< Dorab? (he owns one of each, the lucky SOB).
>>
Oh yeah? You should see my S4 repair bills!!
I prefer the CQ's predictable acceleration, excellent handling...especially
taking tight turns...that's why I would buy an S2 in a *second*!
But the wife prefers the S4's dampened suspension, not as good as the
Caprice's, which can outhandle *every* single car I've encountered in the 9
years I've owned it....
Dorab (nivi@aol.com)
1993 S4, banged wheel, being repaired....
1990 CoupeQ, still looking mint! And is a joy to drive!
1986 Chevy Caprice, *solid* in *every* respect....now considering an SS if
the S4 let's me down again...no timing belts to replace ($$, as I don't do
them myself)
- ------------------------------
From: wooli@coastside.net
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 21:20:43 +0100
Subject: San Francisco Mechanic
I promise I first searched the archives and the Mechanics List, but
didn't see any recommended shops/mechanics in San Francisco proper or
the northern peninsula. Does anyone out there have recommendations? I
recently bought an '89 90 (106K, excellent condition except for the
smoker/owner) and am considering a major service and the following work
and would appreciate any input:
1) replace timing belt, water pump
2) auto tranny adjust service
3) fix high beam stalk -- with lights on the high beams are on, won't
stay in normal position
4) fualty coolant temp sensor -- I get the alarm and have made sure the
coolant overflow tank is topped off, temp guages indicate that 5cyl is
purring happily.
BTW, have enjoyed reading all the archives and gleaning many useful
tidbits; especially as a new Audi owner.
TIA, Patrick (wooli@coastside.net)
- ------------------------------
From: Andrew Buc <72220.443@compuserve.com>
Date: 17 Feb 97 00:33:37 EST
Subject: Beru
> They had the same OEM connectors on the ends, with the Audi logo
> and BERU (whatever that means) on them!!
Beru (not to be confused with a South American country!) is a brand name. I
think they also make spark plugs, although I don't know if you can get them in
the States.
- - --Andrew Buc, Seattle, WA; Internet: 72220.443@compuserve.com
- ------------------------------
From: cobram@Channel1.Com (Cobram)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 01:24:00 -0640
Subject: Re: Why Qwagons rule.
quk@sievers.com (Phil Payne) writes:
Ph> (But the "something heavy", in this case, was a toolbox. A rotating
Ph> car is too small a space to share with a toolbox. End-over-end, in
Ph> my case.)
Those quaint English driving customs never cease to amaze.
Maybe one of those dog-cage separators should be standard
equipment for countries where you drive on the "wrong" side
of the road.
BCNU
... Why do Scots wear kilts? Because sheep can hear zippers.
- - ---
* Blue Wave/QWK v2.20 [NR] *
- ------------------------------
End of quattro-digest V4 #286
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