Re: Sticky Lifter solution(s)??

[QSHIPQ@aol.com]

In a message dated 97-03-11 22:34:37 EST, you write:

<< >  How difficult is the procedure of replacing the sticking valves? Is 
 >  this procedure one that a novice shouldn't attempt?>>>>

 
 >BTDT (novice changing lifters on 89 200Q).  On a scale of 1=change oil,
 >2=brakes, 10=rings (haven't BTDT on 10, and there's probably a 20 on
 >this scale, but I don't know what it is) it's maybe a 5.  If I recall,
 >there are three PITAs here.  First is getting the cam back in when the
 >engine is at TDC, while using the torque sequence that Bentley doesn't
 >give for that engine (extrapolate from the 3B); using that sequence,
 >it's hard to push some of the valves down.  I got all the bearing caps
 >started, then torqued. 
>>>>  Done a half dozen of these, drive to drive is 1 hour.  Here are some
tips for a less painful execution, addressed one at a time.  Note the
position of the woodruff key when removing the cam gear, put it back close,
you have some latitude in that (at least +/- 2 teeth), but you can always ck
the tdc mark on the back if you are retentive.  "loosely" Install bearing
caps front to rear, the cam will "seem" bent, this is normal, it is a bolt
draw on 3 and 4.  The caps crack if you put them on wrong, make sure you rest
them in order and orientation when you take them off.  Double ck torque
setting, beam type preferred, too tight and you will whack your cam bearings
within 100miles

 >Set the back of the cam in carefully first to
 >mate up w/ the distrib.

CAREFULLY.  two ways to do this, either put the dist after the cam install
(guaranteed method) or make sure you wiggle the cam gear back and forth as
you tighten the rear cam caps.  If you don't do this chances are really good
you will nick the worm gear, that ticking sound will stay with you forever
(or new dist gear, whichever comes first).  I prefer to just pull the dist,
sometimes you end up doing it anyway becuz the gear was a tooth off in
engaging...

 > Second and third PITAs are in torqueing the cam
 >bolt, because it's a little hard to brace the cam pulley w/o tearing
 >something up, and because there's limited clearance for a ratchet/torque
 >wrench unless you remove the IC, which requires removing the grill,
 >which requires removing the chrome trim that runs across the front.  You
 >will also have to reset the ignition timing, first drilling out the
 >blind rivet on the distrib bolt cover, no big deal.  There's probably a
 >way to set the cam back in so you don't have to reset the timing, but
 >that would take some advance planning... >>
Torquing the cam bolt:  That is a 59ft/lb spec with loctite, you can tighten
with a 27mm locked on the crank.  DO NOT use this method for removal, since
usually really high torques are involved.  Making the cam locking tool would
take the worst welder hack about 1 minute.

Dist timing:  If you are one of the unlucky ones with the rivet still
installed, get a large set of channel locks and turn the dist body with them
to get tdc.  With the rivet installed the dist will turn with this method.
 Forget drilling that rivet, a cutting wheel is needed.   

Rechecking static timing should always be performed when removing the cam
belt.  Audi dictates it, and a good idea regardless.

HTH

Scott