Re: Help-- Paint!

[tnas@euronet.nl (Tom Nas)]

David Weiss <dzweiss@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>Having the LR door of the (brilliant black) V8 painted, and would like
>to know if I'm being taken for a ride.

>After some minor paint work on the rear of the car, noticed the door had
>crisscrossing scratches under the paint, above the wide molding.
>Question 1: could this have been caused by the oven?

Could be (reaction between paint and ill-prepared surface), but IMO more
likely sanding marks. Seen them thousands of times, and they look exactly
like that.

>Let them block and shoot the door.  I figured it was a bad repair before
>I bought the car, not their fault.  They agreed to remove the wide
>molding and stop the paint under the molding, rather than just mask it
>and try to flow paint under the edge.  They said they could tape off the
>Stoneguard where it extends above the molding.  They also agreed to
>remove the chrome strip at the bottom of the door before painting.

>Checked on the car today, it was in the oven, cooled down.  They had not
>removed the belt molding (at the window), and they had not cleaned off
>all the adhesive under the wide molding (just painted over it).
>Question 2:  is this adhesive going to start the paint peeling or
>crazing, and will it eventually show past the molding?

Crazing: not likely. Peeling: probably. Glue is not a good surface to paint
over.

  Question 3:  is
>the belt molding that hard to remove?  It looks like an easy job.

I'm not sure how hard it is to remove, but I know that a lot of paint shops
aren't keen to remove trim. It's expensive, and they have to replace it if
it breaks. If I take my car to the paintshop, I remove the bits that need
removing myself.

>The adjuster (or whatever he's called) also said the previous repair had
>been done w/ laquer.  This shop uses Glasurit (BASF), w/ clear coat
>added same day as color coat, apparently no buffing between.  I don't
>know what type of paint this is.  Question 4:  would a laquer be
>incompatible w/ other finishes?

There could be some chemical incompatibility, but I doubt it. Most paint
manufacturers nowadays use *about* the same formula for their commercially
available products. Anyway, the old repair should have cured now, so less
chance of reactions. I'm not sure of the differences between lacquer and
clear coat, though. Glasurit is good stuff.

>The car is supposed to be ready tomorrow.  Spray pattern looks great,
>should match the original well after buffing.  Not sure how the edge at
>the Stoneguard will look.  Any problems here, or am I just paranoid,
>besides being retentive?

You're proud of your car, right? So you want it to look good, and bring it
to the paint shop to redo a bad repair. You're right to be critical: you're
paying them to do a good job. I'd be critical, too.

HTH,

Tom

 _______________________________________________________________________
 Tom Nas                                          Zeist, The Netherlands
 tnas@euronet.nl

       'What are you going to do when you grow up as big as I?'
                  asked the father of his son. 'Diet.'