Re: boost bypass valve installation (the igor/avi way)

[Angela Dupin <dupina@crisny.org>]

more questions on the procedure:

1- where did you get the flanged fitting?  the raised spot on the ic is 
less than 1" in diameter what diameter is the valve?
2- is the valve labeled "in" "out"? 
3- I have an old SAAB valve which is a 103 instead of a 102. In that 
installation the inlet is against a spring; what pressure does it take to 
overcome the valve, make it open under normal operation?  or, if you 
prefer, does it limit the max boost?
4- what is the pressure setting for the valve you recommend?  where is 
the valve used as original equipment?

Thanks for your time,

Phil

> > Lucky for me I found the old post, 
here it is......... 
> > > I recently put in a bypass valve and I agree with Dave, makes a big
>  improvement, my Q has" only" 16PSI positive pressure and the addition of
>  the valve made it much less "picky", it drives now like a "normal" car
> not like a snowmobile.......
>  Before I get into the procedure,  here is a small note, the 1.8 also has a
>  boost bypass valve but it is located at "accordion" hose.
>  
>  here is a description:
>  1. get the valve from a Bosch dealer (Audi is too spendy), P.N. is 280 142
> 102 - cut off valve, 
>  2. if you don't have a third opening in your cooler (intercooler), the
>  opening is located between the "IN" and ''OUT" of the cooler, here is how
>  to add one.
>  
>  3. remove your cooler, very easy, 
>  
>  4. remove the plastic end of the cooler (where the "IN" and "OUT"
> openings are) bend the tabs back,
>  
>  5. install a nipple with a flange, the nipple should match the the size
> of the valve, the nipple's flange should be glued to the cooler and also
>  bolted, I did not use a gasket, the glue was enough (must be bolted with
>  bolts that go through with a nut)
>  
>  6. the above nipple should be installed where you will see a raised area
> on the "IN" side of the cooler
>  
>  7. drill through the nipple, now you have a third opening, 
>  
>  8. clean all plastic shavings and reassemble cooler,
>  
>  9. connect the valve to the cooler via a short rubber hose (make sure you
>  connect the "IN" side of the valve)
>  
>  10. determine of the best position for the valve, no interference, etc.
>  find a hose that fit the angles between the valve and the boot metal pipe
>  (there are many "funny" coolant hoses you can try, I used a short BMW
> hose),
>  
>  11. when you decide where your connecting hose (the 'funny hose") between
>  the valve "out" to the metal tube will be, braze a nipple to the metal
> tube,
>  
>  12. attach the out of the valve to the metal tube via a "curvy" hose (I
> used a BMW hose),
>  
>  13. now your car will run... add an intake vacuum line to valve and
> that's it, simple isn't it?....
>  
>  14. you can make the set-up look very neat, just like factory (maybe
>  better), you can put the nipple on the metal hose facing down so it looks
> very OEM,
>  
>  The valve works great and thanks to Igor for the inspiration, if you have
>  any questions (I am sure there will be plenty....) don't hesitate to ask,
> I will do my best to explain,
>  Avi Meron 
> 
> 
>