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MU>I've been debating owning a 5kTQ for a while now, and will  
MU>be looking at an 88 TQ this weekend. The car has

   Lot fewer problems wqith a 89 or later.  Lot more money too.

MU>o 110k mi 
MU>o new radiator + fan 
MU>  [Must have been the well documented problem of the 
MU>   plastic-aluminium radiator leaking]
MU>o Timing belt (a year old)  
MU>o Electricals work fine (according to the owner) 
MU>o Climate Control unit works fine 
MU>o Original clutch 
MU>o Original shocks/struts 
MU>o New Brake pads on the rear

MU>I've tried to go over the archives and collect 
MU>problems common to thisbeast. In this regard, I 
MU>have a few questions :

MU>1. How would I be able to detect any problems with  
MU>   the steering rack ? Would any leakage in the rack 
MU>   or the ps pump manifest itself in the response at  
MU>   the steering wheel ?

    It manifests itself all over the place at the pump and rack
    respectively.  Assume it needs one if it hasn't had one.  Pull the
    washer fluid reservoir and look down at the rack to see if it has the
    big ~ 1/2" tube as opposed to the small brake line size.  The big ones
    aren't as bad.  The pump will have oil all over it if it is bad.

MU>2. How would I check if the turbo were on its last legs ? 
MU>   I remember reading something about checking for an 
MU>   inordinate amount of oil somwehere in the vicinity 
MU>   of the turbo. Could someone please elaborate ?

    Take off the turbo to intercooler hose.  THe turbos rarely go bad.

MU>3. Are there any ways to check if the CC solenoids 
MU>   all work fine ?

MU>4. The owner seemed to know nothing about the Pressure 
MU>   Accumulator. Am I correct in understanding that the  
MU>   PA maintains power steering and brake assist if/when 
MU>   the engine cuts out ? I'm unable to find the usual 
MU>   "stomp the brakes twenty times" test - Could someone 
MU>   let me know how exactly I should check the PA ?

MU>5. Is there anything else that is a usual/major source 
MU>   of problems on these cars that I should be looking out for ?

    AC problems, window regulators, broken glass, lenses etc.  It all helps
    you negotiate. Bad drivers seat heat.

MU>Some questions on a slightly different angle..

MU>I'm a graduate student and can't really afford to sink much 
MU>money into repairs (apart from regular maintenance) if I were 
MU>to buy this TQ. Is there a list of things that I should  
MU>realistically expect to fail/replace in the next 40k miles ?

    Expect it to cost $200/mo if you have repairs done at an independent
    that knows what they're doing.  Lots of little annoying stuff always
    breaks.   5000's are gettin really cheap around here.

 MU>Finally, the owner wants $4500/bo for the car - what would MU>be a
reasonable offer to make ?

    That's the high end.  I see them from $1500 on  up.  3000 to 3500 is
    prolly ok.  Check for good maint records, I consider that very valuable.

MU> I look forward to your thoughts and comments - thank you very 
MU> much.

MU> Murari.

    David Toppin Cape Cod, MA  Pelletman@ccsnet.com 91 200Q, RS2 turbo,
    Hopppen chip, boost problem (mine) 87 5kcstq IA Stage 1, H7R, Koni, etc.
    (mine too, nanny drives it mostly) 97 Suburban (my company car, hers) 90
    F 150 (mine)


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