Cooling System Bleeding was: '89 100 Thermo-switch

[Adam and Soma Dixon <biwltud@bellsouth.net>]

> I recently bought an '89 100 and attempted to replace the radiator
> thermo-switch, thermostat and lower hose.  Upon reassembly and the
> addition of coolant, a leak occurred at the thermo-switch.  The new
> thermo-switch had a gasket with it, which had a felt-like surface.  Was
> this really the right gasket to use?  Should I have used some teflon
> tape on the threads?  Based on the size of the leak, I really goofed > >and would appreciate being set straight.

In better light, I was able to see that the lower radiator hose was not
sealed properly.  Please don't laugh too hard.  I ended up using a
longer length flexible hose to make the connections since the radiator
was not in the original position due to an improperly repaired left
front end after an accident (there is makeshift mounting hardware being
used now). 
Now I am trying to figure out how to properly bleed the system.  The fan
is turned on when the temp. gauge is at the thin hash mark near
vertical.  I observe this at a parked idle state, but cannot observe
under normal driving conditions.  There is still coolant loss from the
overflow tube and I am thinking that I have air trapped in the system. 
I tried loosening the sensor where the top hose connects to the block
and all I get is coolant.  Is there another bleed screw or method that I
should be using?  

> Also, are there any diagnostic tests that I could perform on the
> compressor?  I have checked the A/C fuse and A/C relay.  The relay
> closes w/12V applied, the internal capacitor is approx. 570uF and the
> diode is showing a .6V junction drop - so I am assuming that it is okay.