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Re: Leaking '93 90 and a (freshly) busted ignition switch



>Well, evidently my 1993 90CS has figured out how to follow this list.
>With all of the recent talk surrounding the ignition switch recall
>for '94-ish Audis, I was just thinking, "Gee, I wonder if this
>affects my car?"

Never, EVER ask this question.....

>So I leave work on Friday night and get into the car. I turn the
>ignition switch, the car starts, but the starter doesn't disengage
>when I release the key. And the windows, and the A/C, etc. don't
>work. Seems like the "return spring" that is supposed to make the
>"START" position momentary has given up, and now I must manually
>return the key to the "RUN" position. Oh, !@$@#%$#@!@@**

This is the least interesting thing that can happen.  Mine broke as I
was on the freeway starting a trip up to St. Louis; everything
electrical
(lights, A/C, radio, guages, windows) stopped working, but the car kept
running.  I turned around and drove 85 miles back to the Audi garage
baking because the A/C wouldn't work and the windows wouldn't roll down;
it was the swich.  Replaced for free.

>The car has also spung a leak. Nothing vital, just washer fluid.

Just wait 'till it starts leaking oil!

>After several hours of exploratory surgery, this is what I discovered:
>the reservior is a massive 6.7 litre platic moulding that takes up
>most of the empty space between the inside of the left fender and
>outside of the engine compartment wall.

This has happened to me twice.

>There is a "nose" moulded into the front of the container which helps
>support it via a rubber grommet and a bracket. The "nose" is at a
>90 deg. angle to the side of the container. I guess with all of the
>weight, the "nose" has bent upwards, splitting from the container,
>and, voila!, leak.

And "voila!"  6.7 litres if washer fluid on my good friend's (BM driver
no less) driveway.  ("Hey, look at all of that!  Did you just wash your
car?"  "Uhh.... yea!")

>I'm trying to decide whether I should try to repair it with epoxy
>or just replace it. $66 from Clair Parts Express gets me a new one.
>It will be a *MAJOR* PITA to get it out, as I have to disassemble
>much of the front of the car to get to it. I'll have to do this
>whether I repair or replace...

I had the dealer replace it both times so I don't know how hard it is to
take it out, but the second time it was replaced I crawled in a little
and put a huge glob of epoxy around the bit that broke, to reinforce it.
Hasn't broken yet again.

>Any comments? Would a epoxy fix work, or would I be doing this
>again in four months??

My advice would be to get a new one and reinforce the bit that broke.
If your car is under warranty then I would definitely recommend that
you have your dealer do it, for free.  Then crawl under the car and
have at it with the glue!

HTH

Elliott