'86 C-GT Alternator repair?/short in system? (long)

[Phil@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <33E9E716.22F7@tiac.net> Allan Jones writes:

> ... I don't have any electrical testing equipment and if I did, I
> really don't even know how to use them. 'Them' would be a test light?
> ...a volt-meter?  ... right?

> Should I 1)buy/get(batteries are usually guaranteed from dying, right?)
> another battery and hope, OR 2)buy a voltmeter and/or test light and
> start learning now...gotta learn somehow/sometime, right?

Well, any battery dealer is going to be familiar with their return
pattern.  It might work once ...

Sorry.  There's a learning curve approaching.  The best course of action
is to obtain a budget special-purpose auto multimeter.  Some months ago,
I bought a "Draper Expert Digital Automotive Analyser" for around $45.
It has pretty well all the functions you'll ever need.  Look for the
functions (dwell, tach) to be calibrated for 5 cylinder engines.  Look
for quite comprehensive volt and ohm ranges, but don't worry if there's
only a single relatively crude current range.  The most delicate current
measurement on any Audi is the 430ma (half an amp) on the ISV.  A
"diode" test position is also a good idea.  The Draper device has all of
these.

In your case, you're looking for a clandestine current consumer probably
between 0.2 and 2 amps.  Kill every switch on the car (and the interior
light, if you have the doors open, BTDT) and see if current is still
flowing from the battery.  Then pull the fuses, one by one, to find
which circuit it is.

Then post the fuse number here.

--
 Phil Payne
 phil@isham-research.demon.co.uk
 Phone: +44 385302803  Fax: +44 1536723021  CIS: 100012,1660