Re: Um, next problem (Charging System) (and other stuff)

[Ken <kkeith@qnet.com>]

<everything has been itemized for your listing pleasure>
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COOLING PROBLEM:
Ken wrote:
> PROBLEM:  Today, at lunch the voltmeter began reading lower and lower. When I left it > last, it was almost totally rested on the "lowest" reading (below 8v).
> I guess I'm going to catch a ride home, and bring back my other Audi's 
> alternator/regulator and battery (just in case).

<THANKS FOR ALL THE RESPONSES!>

Well, I got it home.  Just brought down my other alternator, battery,
and the 'original' voltage regulator that was in the Coupe before that I
had replaced the brushes on.

Started up OK, voltage was "normal" for the car.  I will be going
through all the ground straps 'n stuff very soon.  I may move the
battery to the trunk (yeah!  try and eat through my plug wires now,
mister battery acid man!)
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USEFUL?  TIP:
Secret Trick!  Tonite I realized you guys 'n gals may not know about
this trick.  Or, maybe you think it sucks!

I can't get a screwdriver, even a shorty, into the space between the
alternator and radiator, so to get the regulator out, I take one of the
clips that holds the grill on and use the side of it to turn the
screws.  Yes, tedious as heck, but you don't have to remove the
alternator at all.  If you need more leverage, a screwdriver can be
inserted into the 'bottom' of the clip, using the side in the screw
groove and move the screwdriver.

So, if you're somewhat lazy like me, or don't want to get in the dirt,
or something, this might work for ya'.  Just think, buy a spare
regulator assembly, throw it in the glovebox, or in one of the many
cubbyholes (or my favorite for spare oil bottles, rags,  and such, under
the hood to the side of the fresh air intake area), and not need ANY
tools at all to change your regulator/brushes in the parking lot of some
Motel 6 in the middle of nowhere.
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VENDOR REFERRAL:
Just ordered a new clutch kit and tranny mount.  I got a great price
from Rod at The Parts Connection.  I thought I might mention it.  I've
always got great service from them, and they deliver like the same day! 
(at least to me in the same state).  And, they (or at least Rod) will
beat other prices you may have.  No affiliation, (except that for every
dollar they make, they give me ten).  he he

So, actually my point was, that after I take care of the clutch and see
why my brakes are so damn hard <really>, I will very seriously be
looking into that Group 6 alternator "upgrade".
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HOT COUPE STILL:
I am really bothered by how hot my damn car is!  I know Audis run the
gamut of "normal" operating temperatures, but in my opinion, if it's
"normal", it should be in the middle of the gauge!

My car is normally 2 lines away from the last line.  (The last line is
THE last line, the border or frame if you will.)  Two lines away if
usual, no matter what it seems.  When it's under heavy load, like ever
since I put in my cam, it climbs to ONE line away.

I simply can't believe this is normal.  One line away is not far enough
to anticipate the engine overheating, for me anyway.  I've replaced all
hoses, water pump, thermostat, and even swapped in a different radiator.

I did notice that behind the water pump, there looks like there is (was)
a "ridge", much thicker than casting flash, that is at the bottom of the
orifice.  It looks like it (was) is intended to divide the area in half
or something.  Anyway, mine is not there.  I'm assuming there was more,
because the last of it was very rusty, and broke away from my touching
it.

So my theory is that this piece is intended to somehow help pressurize
the coolant, and without it, at least some coolant simply flows around
the impellers instead of being forced to the center area into the
radiator.  Am I thinking too much, and it's just casting flash?

What about build up of deposits inside the water passages?  Would that
eventually impede cooling, like clogged arteries?  If rust is a chemical
reaction, and mineral deposits come from being suspended or dissolved in
a liquid, isn't there some kind of brilliant man-made chemical process
that can reverse this effect?  Short of pulling the block, and hot
tanking it and stuff?
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NETIQUETTE QUESTION:
Would it be better if I asked my questions/rambled in separate posts, or
does it matter?
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Later!

Ken
<  '86 Audi Coupe GT                           >
<   AZEV 16's, ABT, Borla, K&N, Brembo, Schrick>
<  '94 Saturn SL2                              >
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