Re: Clutch replacement

[QSHIPQ@aol.com]

In a message dated 97-10-15 09:14:51 EDT, you write:

<< Hmmm, interesting...is yours the factory tool, Steve? My old standby is
the
 <<Zelenda centering tool and it's worked out for every I5 I've done '84-'91.
Just about any centering tool will work, it's more the object of the game.
 Not mandatory, the tool, but helpful.  Done more than a few, and I find that
the eye and loosening the FW bolts is just as good.
 
 <While we're at it ... does anyone know if the urQ is like a 4k or a 5k in 
 <the clutch splines department?
> Well, it's definately like the 5ktq as they use the same clutch components.
I
 >haven't checked, but I *think* the number of splines are identical on all q
 >trans.
Both 016's are interchangeable. The the driveshaft and rear diff are
different.

> Oh yeah, I'd recommend it also. I've pulled one or two without the 25$ tool
 >and they either come out easy or fight ya for hours....best 25$ spent.

After doing hours of delicate dremel work, 25bux is definitely money well
spent.  The rear main seal is available aftermarket for about 10bux.
 However, audi only sells the seal with the rear plate installed.  For the
65bux I recommend it, doing just the seal has a higher than normal leakage
factor.  Doing a clutch twice isn't fun.

There is a seal for the spline shaft into the trans that should be replaced
as well.  When that leaks you will have trans fluid in clutch syndrome.

Flywheel step (pre 89) is .965 max, exceeded on a tweeked computer car slips
clutch immediately, btdt

Steve, the front part of the motor can be held up with a piece of rope or
wire, loop around the front motor mount and put a piece of 2x4 (audi part
number 20X4P, superceded to pine:) diagnally across the quarter panel lip to
the front crossmember.

The rear driveshaft hex's are best heated before removal, you can strip them
easily.  Replace with vw 12points on install, stronger and more torque
friendly.

Removing downpipe is NOT necessary on 44 chassis cars.  Removal of exhaust
and CAT is.  

REMOVE trans wings before dropping, you need that room.  A major bitch to do
it while the trans is en route down.

Clean the rod for the center diff lock as well.  Sand and relube.  

The slave is best done post removal.  disconnect the line to the master and
remove with trans.  Rebuild or replace it, a lot of crud gets in there over
the years.

The clearance of spline to clutch is tight, I find that the last 1 1/2 inches
is usually a bolt draw.

Careful of the shift rods when you put the trans in.  High probability that
the shifter pops it's socket in the car.  Check that first after install.

Make sure you pull the 2 flywheel sensors off, they are expensive to replace
if you whack them on install.

I believe archives has all the tools and the procedure from when I did one of
these about 2 years ago.  

Serious consideration of rack replacement when the trans is out is
recommended.  A lot of time can be saved when you are staring at that thing
with no trans in the car.


HTH

Scott
'87 5ktqwRS2
'87 5ktq
'86 5ktqw
'84 Urq