Re: quattro-digest V4 #1315

["Janet Scruggs" <scruggs@mbay.net>]

Brendan,  from my experience your mechanics have only parts of the story. 
See archives of about last Feb-Mar for extensive banter re synthoil...
you'll see much bloodletting from each side so decide for yourself.  I've
used synthetics since '77 (Eon-M22) and Amsoil exclusively since about '86.
 (As an aside, some associate Amsoil with Amway... they are _not_ in any
way related!)  That's about 320kmi over four cars, driven hard, 30kmi oil
change intervals, 5kmi Amsoil filter change intervals, with no engine
problems.  Why 30kmi... that is a PDOOMA number. (From the aerospace
industry and meaning "pulled directly out of my ass," but it works for me.)
  Regarding flushing... when changing to a synthetic, although they are
compatible, the less dilution with petro oil the better.  Most parts store
flushes are essentially kerosene.  It's better than nothing.  Amsoil makes
a better flush... your call.  

The reason for a delaying the switch to synthetics is that their reduced
friction will also delay the point at which a new engine becomes 'broken
in.'  OK now, you can practically hear the din of objections from the dino
oil folks challenging the terms 'reduced friction' and 'broken in.' 
Regarding reduced friction: the only numbers I can give are supplied only
by the synthoil mfgs... Mobil, Amsoil, Redline.... (the rest are
parasynthetic, Castrol Syntech and such)... and therefore are suspect by
some.  Others would note that the dino oil mfgs have no ammunition in this
fight and therefore they offer no friction numbers, four-ball test and
such.  Regardless, delve into the since of tribology and you will find that
synthetics are "slicker" and more stable.  On to 'broken in"... generally a
concept spoken in terms of miles but realistically... minimum = first oil
change... maximum = when it begins to burn oil.  I've done both and felt
the engine in question ran better with synthetics.  Yes, a subjective
evaluation likely influenced by planet alignment, but they _do_ run better.
 

My understanding is that in Germany synthetics _must_ be used for all oil
changes.  Joe Yakubic/Phil Payne, can you validate/ clarify this?  The
circle is complete as synthoil was developed by German scientists in the
'30s, guess why, with more than a thousand compounds being identified as
potential lubricants.  

Vaporization is not an issue with synthoils... was it ever even with
dinoils?  Excise the term from your vocabulary. 

"He changes the (Redline) oil in his car twice a year to accomodate
seasonal temp ranges."  If said seriously, an illustration of complete
ignorance of the characteristics of synthoil.  (Ask for his used oil as it
has many, many more miles in it.)  They pour easily at below zero temps and
exhibit little volatility to around 400degF.  If your seasons challenge
those numbers I don't want to live in your neighborhood.  

Brands? I've a prejudice against Mobil because when they introduced Mobil 1
in the '70s they advertised it as a 'synthetic.'  It wasn't.  Now it is...
but I continue to punish them nonetheless.  If it is the only thing
available... use it.

Redline is 'perhaps' the best, I don't know.  I don't use it as I can't
stand the price and Amsoil is half as much.  A lot of racers do use it but
sponsorship certainly plays a part.  I am going to use their MT-90 for the
trans in my '87 5kCSq because Amsoil doesn't have an equivalent.  
 
I'll be reporting shortly on my HKS EVC III installation.

Regards, Gross
"I'm having deja vu and amnesia at the same time.  I think I've forgotten
this before."  Steven Wright
------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 19:11:26 -0500
> From: Brendan <bman@swva.net>
> Subject: Re: Amsoil synthetic oil
> 
> At 05:16 PM 11/4/97 -0500, Phil & Judy Rose wrote:
> >I recall some previous postings have made positive statements about
using
> >Amsoil synthetic oil. That happens to be the brand recommended by my
local
> >Audi garage. They say that the initial use requires that a special
> >"flushing" operation be done. As I understand it, a proprietary cleaning
> >additive is dumped into the old oil and run for a specified interval.
This
> >is followed by a change to the Amsoil synthetic and special
high-efficiency
> >filter.
> 
> I'm curious about these flushing procedures as well.  I asked our local
> foreign/specialty car shop a few questions about switching to synthetic
> oil.  I'm considering using Redline in my car.  Among the comments he
made
> were these:
> 
> 1)  Do not switch to synthetic oil until after the break-in period.  He
> recommends not switching to synthetic until roughly 50,000 miles are on
the
> motor.
> 
> 2)  Do not use engine flushes when switching if the car has been well
> maintained and the oil has been changed regularly.
> 
> 3)  (good) Synthetic oils suffer less from vaporization, which can help
> reduce oil consumption between changes.  He was clear in pointing out
that
> burning and leaking oil were not the only types of oil consumption.
> Although another mechanic (whom I distrust) responded to this by saying
> vaporization was the same as burning oil, I disagree.
> 
> I also asked him about change intervals (specifically with Redline oils).
> He recommends a change roughly every 7-8,000 miles, or when required by
> seasonal change.  He changes the (Redline) oil in his car twice a year to
> accomodate seasonal temp ranges.
> 
> I'm interested in comments as well.  And I should point out, I'm not
> specifically endorsing or recommending Redline over other brands, it just
> happens to be what this particular mechanic carries and prefers, so it's
> the brand we discussed.  References to that specific brand are intended
> only to clarify that we were discussing a particular brand, since I think
> everyone will agree that there are differences between brands of
synthetic
> oils.
> 
> Brendan