RE: Leaking clutch m/c

[quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <UPMAIL13.199711161942180668@classic.msn.com> "Ian J Haseltine" writes:

> Whats the scale?

> More than 18 hours = P*ss poor
> 12 - 18 hours = Average
> 8 -12 hours = Competent
> 5 - 8 hours = Pretty good
> Less than 5 hours = Sh*t hot

6 hours counts as sh*t hot.

Parts requirement:

411 417 549     x1     Shear bolt
N 902 547 01    x2     Locking clevis pin retainer
N 011 184 09    x10    Self-locking nut
N 011 183 11    x2     Self-locking nut
N 902 920 01    x4     Self-locking nut

Job (pass one):

Remove all cladding from right footwell, and lower panel from left
footwell.

Remove clevis pin from right end of brake actuator rod (destroying
one N 902 547 01 in the process).

Pull off horn cover.

Remove steering wheel - 24mm nut at 40Nm.

Remove indicator stalks.

Remove upper section of steering column.  Drill out shear bolt with
10mm bit after loosening Allen screw on opposite side.  Unhook upper
section from lower section and withdraw.

Remove lower section of steering column.  The clamping bolts are recessed
into the spline sections and have to be removed _completely_ before
the lower section of the column can be withdrawn.

Unscrew cable holder from pedal frame.

Remove brake pedal.

Unscrew master cylinder.

Disconnect actuator rod from clutch pedal.

Push master cylinder backwards and disengage actuator rod.

Fit new master cylinder.

Assembly is the reverse of dismantling.


-- 
 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club