RE: '89 100Q Fault code dump

["Stadmeyer, Francis" <stadmef@pweh.com>]

Sorry to take so long to respond to all the great help.  I hate it when
the company expects me to work for my pay.

Final outcome:

Unable to pull the codes.  The check engine light never came on after I
inserted the fuse.  Looking at the Bentley,  it appears that 1989 was
the year for the running change from the fuse method to the LED method
in the footwell.  I have the slot on the top of the fuel pump relay but
as I said, no response.  I suppose it's possible the bulb has been
removed as had been suggested previously.  Anybody know for sure if it
was a mid model change and the up VIN?  I'm really not looking for extra
work to remove the instr. cluster for no good reason.

Replaced the ISV - no change when disconnected, no difference after
cleaning.  Idle returned to normal with a slight bit of hunting.
Replaced the OXS since we determined it was the original.  Replaced the
battery - marginal performance - don't need a call from the wife about a
dead battery (winter in New England)!

Results:  All is working OK.  Never got it done in time for her trip to
NJ  but she canceled due to weather anyway, so my '91 200Q was safe
again.

Now if I can figure out why the hack job aftermarket radio (Kenwood)
doesn't get AM reception (most of the time) and why the rear speakers
don't work, maybe she'll actually like it!

Again, Thanks All

Frank Stadmeyer

>----------
>From: 	Andrew Duane USG/PE[SMTP:duane@zk3.dec.com]
>Sent: 	Friday, November 07, 1997 9:51 AM
>To: 	stadmef@pweh.com
>Cc: 	quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>Subject: 	Re: '89 100Q Fault code dump
>
>Hairy green toads from Mars made Stadmeyer, Francis say:
>
>> I hate to ask for the proceedure to dump the codes since I know it's in
>> the archives,  but I have only saved bits and pieces of it in my
>> personal files and the company has screwed with outside Internet access
>> (again) so I can't search the archives from work.
>
>Well, it just so happens that my Bentley is sitting next to me
>on my desk (don't ask).  So, here's what section D2-230 has to say:
>
>TIP: Before activating fault display, check ground connections for
>     corrosion or broken wiring between the engine compartment and
>     the intake amnifold and between the ignition coil power output
>     stage and its components.
>
>Also, check fuses 12, 24, and 28 are OK.
>
>Fault codes are a series of blinks on the check engine light.
>A fault code is 4 digits, each of which is 1, 2, 3, or 4. The
>digit is how many blinks are 0.5 seconds apart, digits are
>separated by a 2.5 second pause.
>
>
>Start engine, test drive at least 5 minutes, greater than 3000 RPM,
>momentarily press gas pedal to floor. Then let idle.
>
>Dump the first code by inserting a spare fuse in the top of the fuel pump
>relay (it's the one with the fuse slot in the top) for at least 4 seconds. 
>The code will blink as long as the car is on, until the next code is dumped.
>
>Advance to the next code (if any) by reinserting the fuse for 4 seconds.
>
>4444 means no faults stored.
>
>0000 means no more faults.
>
>Fault codes:
>1111 control unit defective.
>1231 trans speed sender
>2121 idle switch
>2122 engine speed signal missing
>2123 full throttle switch
>2141 first knock regulator limit exceeded
>2223 altitude sensor
>2233 air flow sensor reference voltage
>2312 coolant temperature sensor
>2341 O2 sensor regulator limit exceeded
>2342 O2 sensor no signal
>4431 idle stabilizer valve
>
>(california only):
>2132 data wiring defective
>2411 EGR system
>
>-- 
>
>Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)			duane@zk3.dec.com
>Digital Equipment Corporation		(603)-884-1294
>110 Spit Brook Road
>M/S ZKO3-3/U14
>Nashua, NH    03062-2698
>
>Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too heavy to care.
>