Automagical Idle Stabilization

["Douglas H. Quebbeman" <dougq@iglou.com>]

All of a sudden, my idle stabilization problem seems to have
disappeared. Of all the suggestions I'd gotten in response to
my query, Ed Kellock's WOT switch fix seemed the easiest thing
to try.

I had about the same trouble getting the switch opened without
destroying it as Alex Kowalski recently described. However, I
did not have to resort to an X-acto knife; I was able to tease
it apart with a flat-blade screwdriver.

The solder joints between the connector terminals and both the
idle microswitch and the WOT lever switch had the classic look
of cold solder joints. Heated all the joints up with a 43-watt
pencil, wicked out the old solder, and resoldered them using that
wonderful British Ersin Flux Multicore solder.

I checked the function of the microswitch and the lever switch.
Both appeared fine.

I put the switch back together, thought about sealing it, but
was in a hurry to see if it fixed the problem. Nope. I still
had the engine seeking between 1300 and 1400.

Our local weather had gotten cold, lows 25-35, highs 40-45.
The idle got better when it warmed back up to low-40s high-50s/60s
(all temps fahrenheit).

I suppose if it starts acting up again when the temp drops once
again, I'll have something that vaguely resembles a lead.

--
-Douglas Hurst Quebbeman (dougq@iglou.com)
--
Current AUDIs:
74 100LS Automatic w/Weber 32DGV (in storage awaiting restoration) [#01]
77 100LS Automatic (in driveway, rusting)                          [#06]
84 Coupe GT (Running since Jan. '97 w/dry 5sp transmission)        [#07]
86 5KCSTQ (Finally, a Quattro!)                                    [#08]
--
"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away."  -Tom Waits