Re: removing 4kq tie rods

[Todd Phenneger <phen9461@uidaho.edu>]

OK, OK,
	I saw those two bolts.  Tried removing them.  Got the bottom nuts
off with no problem but the bolts would only turn about one full turn and
then sieze.  Dang.  I need to get them off one of these days so I can
replace the boot for the rack piston rod.  BTW, what is the danger of
driving without this boot on.  Just messy from a little oil getting on
stuff when you work around there or does it really need to be replaced to
dave my steering from failing?
	ANyhow, I am scared to put to much force on those bolts for fear
of breaking them.  ANy suggestions anyone.
	Oh, BTW, I did replace the Entire TIe-rods without removing the
bracket from the rack, but it did take 5 hours.  ANd I had to grind the
bolt head down to get it back on so they would clear.  I'm sure removing
the bracket is easyer but it IS possable without doing so.  Would NOT
recomend it though.  I am patient but I probable would of traded my car
for a YUGO just to get home at that point.  L8R

	Todd Phenneger   aka: Zarati
	1984 4000s quattro / New Red Paint
	2.5" Borla SS Exhaust  /  Boge Turbo Gas Shocks
	15" Wheels & 205/50 ZR15 Bridgestone RE-71s
	Considering a Turbo Conversion  :)

On Wed, 3 Dec 1997, Hare,Stott (X) wrote:

> Unfortunately there was a step that was missed.  To remove either tie
> rod assembly, you must first
> remove the bracket the tie rod bolt to from the rack.  Simple? No.  The
> rack is threaded, and the
> two bolt securing the bracket to the rack have nuts on the underside...
> So remove the nuts from below,
> can't just hold the nut and spin the bolt 'cause the rack is threaded.
> Then remove the bolts.  Now you can get the clearance you need to remove
> the double bolt/stud & plate assembly holding the tie rods to the
> bracket.
>   Fun huh??  Oh yeah,  installation is reverse of removal.
> 
> -S
> 
> Stott Hare
> Application Developer
> Policy Administration Team
> 
> harest@allenbrook.iix.com