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update on 5000S (no chain letter content)
Just to keep you up to date, I just got my 5000S back from an estimate at the
tranny shop. I've been losing about a quart every other day or so. They
found several small leaks and one major leak at the servo. They can repair
the servo leak without pulling the tranny for about $200 (the exhaust has to
be removed.) To pull the tranny and repair the other leaks will cost $300,
plus they'll take a look-see inside to check the innards. Pretty reasonable
(I guess that's why they call him "Mr. Transmission.") ;)
So here's the up-to-date total. $400 for the car (an '87 5000 with auto,
sunroof, power locks, windows and seats, cruise control, Audidesign stereo,
and shitty wheels 165/14s with the original wheel covers, 74,000 on a stopped
odometer and I'm guessing about 80-85K), $110 for a rear brake job (fronts
were new), $90 for installation of new wheel sensors (haven't gotten the
sensors from the dealer yet,) $147 for oil change, tune up, emissions check
and new fuel filter (I could have gotten it done cheaper of course, but I'm
establishing a relationship with a local garage, plus he's been checking the
car over slowly). So I'm at $1050, with about $1500 worth of bodywork to do.
The only other major repair to do that I'm aware of is the front right CV torn
boot and possible CV replacement (my mechanic says that it's probably shot.)
So I've got $2550 in the car once I get the bodywork done. Not too bad
really. Supposedly, retail for the car should be in the neighborhood of $3500
or so (of course I know that that's not exactly what I might get for it should
I decide to let it loose in the near future, but at least I'll be fairly
close.) Including the below things and the CV joint, I shouldn't be much more
than $4,000 <g>. But I'll have a known quantity and then I can deal with all
of those "other" problems that crop up with 5000Ses <chuckle>.
Things left to fix: power locks, odometer, AC/fan blower intermittent
operation, digital clock intermittent operation, sagging and torn headliner,
missing muffler clamp, left rear passenger outside door handle missing and
inop power window (the other 3 work,) power antenna won't extend or retract,
oxygen sensor check and/or replacement, possible bomb replacement, and timing
belt/water pump replacement. Obviously with the exception of the last 3
items, repairs are either minor or I can live with them for a few months. The
motor is tight as a drum, if a little underwhelming in spunk (although I
haven't really been able to wind it out yet due to the tranny problems I've
been trying to baby it a little until the repair.) It has that valve chatter
for about a minute or so but I can live with it since it isn't a big deal,
right? Also, I don't know really about the cooling system yet. I noticed a
leak on the first day but not since. Level has been the same but when the
heater blower came on unexpectantly yesterday after the shop visit, it was
still blowing cold air after almost 10 minutes in 30 degree weather, which
might indicate a change in thermostat.
By the way, I pulled the lock pump and was going to reconnect the electrical
plug as suggested but it was real tight, and I didn't have time to pull it all
the way around that brace. The connection seems very secure. Do I still need
to pull it? How do I check whether it's even getting power? It's fused with
the power mirrors which work so it's not that.
Also, thanks to all that told me about the bomb check. The only problem is
that my brake light is constantly on because of the screwed up front brake
sensors. My mechanic told me that the previous guy who did the brake job
screwed them up. My problem is that I don't have a real feel for how the
brakes *should* feel with assist (or I'm not confident.) If the pedal feels
hard after a couple of pumps but then feels normal after the next couple of
pumps, is *that* what I'm looking for as far as a problem?
Any ideas about the blower motor and digital clock problem?
d(who's thankful that sunroof works)weil