RE: Headlight switch repairable?

["PAT MARTIN" <MARDKINS@classic.msn.com>]

For a temporary fix try holding the switch between the headlight position and 
the parking light position.  This would hold for however long I wanted it to.

I had gone through 3 switches in 3 years so I decided to investigate what was 
causing them to burn up.  After diasecting #3 it turns out the headlight 
portion of the switch is not the problem.  The parking light part of the 
switch melts and causes this problem.   The headlight part is actually well 
designed and does not create the heat.  To resolve this I figured out which 
contacts of the 4 were working and installed a relay.  And as of today no heat 
and no problems.
Moral of the story.  PUT THE RELAY ON THE PARKING LIGHTS BEFORE THE 
HEADLIGHTS.
Pat Martin
864000csq turbo, 2 1/2 cat back, H&R-Boge, MC and loving it.  Drilled rotors 
stopping it. Koenig Cobra 16x7 with AVS Intermediates turning it,  K&N and 
uh....
95 subaru legacy 
Bothell, Wa
 
The headlight switch in my '86 4kcsq started going bad a few months ago.
 It would sometimes take a bit of jiggling for the dash lights to stay
on with full headlights.  Last week in the middle of the night they went
out and stayed out no matter what I did. The dash lights work perfectly
well with only the running/parking lights on.  I suspect the connector,
wherever it is, has lost contact with the dash light bit in the full on
position.  Further evidence of a full open is that the finger blistering
heat on the switch is completely gone.  I suspect there was only a
partial connection before that was acting like a resistor and heating
up.  Is this dash to headlight connector outside the switch body where I
can clean it up or inside the switch?  Is it worth repairing or is it
time to replace the switch?  I'd like to fix this soon since driving at
night with a dark dash is more than a bit disconcerting.  Thanks for the
help.

Denise Riley
driley@tqs.com