programmer/Cadillac?

[audistuff@juno.com (Paul R Anderson)]

I remember seeing on the list recently that GM used the same
A/C programmer on theri automatic climate control systems.
Can anyone verify this and tell us all which models used it?

Thanks,


Paul Anderson:Please send any direct mail to my private address as I
don't
keep up with the list very well.
 Private email AndersonPaul@juno.com


On Thu, 26 Mar 1998 23:33:43 -0500 "Titus, Brian (NJAOST)"
<BTitus@njaost.ml.com> writes:
>OK, I've determined that it is in fact the little motor that's gone 
>bad.
>I've managed to extract the motor and I'm wondering if there is any 
>point in
>trying to take it apart. Anyone have a spare or a line on a new one? 
>(My
>last trip to the local junkyard wasn't very fruitful; judging from the 
>state
>of the 5k's there, I don't expect to find an intact programmer.) My 
>mechanic
>says just the motor is about $200 new, but he's going to try to look 
>for a
>better price.
>
>TIA,
>Brian
>885ksq
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	Tony Lum [SMTP:tlum@flash.net]
>> Sent:	Monday, March 23, 1998 4:25 PM
>> To:	Titus, Brian (NJAOST)
>> Subject:	RE: heating woes, continued
>> 
>> At 08:17 PM 3/23/98 -0500, you wrote:
>> >	Well, now I'm a little confused. I disconnected the Bowden 
>cable and
>> >it moved somewhat freely, but not freely through the complete 
>travel of
>> the
>> >motor arm (i.e. not as freely as I would have expected). And, when 
>freed
>> >from the cable, the motor arm still seemed to click and stumble its 
>way
>> from
>> >LO to HI. Could both items be going bad? I'm guessing it's really 
>the
>> >programmer that is in trouble.
>> 
>> Probably the high friction in the Bowden cable caused the motor 
>gears to
>> strip out.  I think the programmers are about $150 used.  You might 
>be
>> better off finding on in a junkyard-you need just the motor assy and 
>2
>> good
>> solenoids off the junk assy.  Got my last one for $8!  Listed as 
>misc.
>> interior part :)
>> 
>> You need to resolve the excess friction in the Bowden cable/flap 
>interface
>> or you'll strip out the replacement motor as well.  I noticed on 
>mine that
>> if the cable was at the end of its travel (all the way in on your 
>side)
>> the
>> flaps would go overcenter and friction would go way up.  When 
>adjusting
>> the
>> clip on the heater housing try to not let the cable go "all the 
>way".  The
>> main flap in front is supposed to have a felt washer and thin metal 
>washer
>> to reduce friction (think this was a TSB).  Older '84-'85 used an
>> auxilliary spring to assist the motor arm in pulling the cable.  
>Later
>> models use a more powerful motor.
>> 
>> HTH,
>	etc_____
>

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