Re: TIME FOR AN OIL CHANGE

[Brett Dikeman <brett@pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net>]

Please do not type in all caps.  It is partially excusable by the fact that
you're an AOL user, and hence naive about polite usage of email.  For
future reference, typing in all caps is rude.

To answer your questions(I think I got all of them):

-Mobil 1 is a fine, high quality, time tested and proven oil.  Most
synthetics are; if switching to synthetic from mineral("dino") oil, you
might get some new dribbles of oil here and there.  Avoid any el-cheapo
brands(ie "Bob's Motor Oil" or store specials "K-mart Oil".)  Any of the
big labels are fine.  Audis are no different from any other car that uses
motor oil; they all use it the same way.  Make sure you match the grade of
oil to the temp ranges you will experience before your next oil change.
Most oils have a chart on the back of the bottle/case.  Also, avoid like
the plauge any additives or teflon treatments.  The previous owner used
just about every one in my 200q; I'm draining the oil and throwing in some
10W30 Mobil1 which will get changed in about 1000 miles or less to flush
that crap out.
-The stock oil filter is fine if not better than the crap auto stores put
on the shelves.
-Don't waste your money on gold plated junk.  Completely useless and you're
paying mostly for the extra marketing.  Besides, unless your wires test out
of spec(ie, high resistance) or cracked insulation, why would you replace
them?  BTW, cars with radios have supressors in the "head" of the wire, so
if you get a reading of 100-1000 Ohms instead of 0 Ohms, that's why.
-Bosch plugs are "stock" in most Audis(my 200q being an example.)  Some
people swear by the Platinum plugs; whatever floats your boat and your
wallet can afford.
-Avoid the K&N filter, or any aftermarket "improved" design.  Performance
gains are unbased, unproven, and, as Ned pointed out once, can severely
mess up the readings from the air flow sensor, particularly the hot wire
kind.  Trust the people that built your car; they know how to make a box
for an air filter.  Leave it there.  Honest.  If anything, you'll suck more
crap in than you would with the stock filter.
-Get the cap and rotor from the dealer/Bosch parts supplier.  Don't mess
with aftermarket; get true OEM stuff.  Again, trust the people that made
your car.  There's a reason they put a Bosch rotor on and not a "Super
Duper Gold Plated Cyclotronic Brand X" rotor on your car...

In all, common sense and a litle thinking goes a long way.  "New and
Improved" usually isn't.  If it's too good to be true, it is...etc.

Hope this helps,
Brett

>HI, I HAVE A 91 AUDI 100.  ITS BEEN ABOUT 2500 MILES SINCE MY LAST OIL CHANGE.
>I JUST BOUGHT THE OIL FILTER FROM THE VW DEALER.  WAS THAT A GOOD OPTION OR
>NOT, WHY?  I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW, FROM EXPERIENCE, WHAT IS THE BEST OIL TO USE
>IN THE AUDI'S, ESPECIALLY IN THE 2.3 LTR 5CYL ENGINE.  SOON I WILL ALSO DO A
>TUNE UP, ANYONE RECCOMEND ANY PARTS?  I WAS THINKING ABOUT BOSCH PLATINUM
>PLUGS, AND A K AND N AIR FILTER.  ARE THESE PARTS GOOD?  WHAT KIND OF CAP,
>ROTOR, PLUG, PCV VALVE, OR WIRES SHOULD I BUY?  SHOULD I GO WITH GOLD PLATED
>OR NOT?
>
>THANKS


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Brett Dikeman
brett@pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net
~)-|
Hostes alienigeni me abduxerunt.  Qui annus est?
Te audire non possum.  Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.
Ita, scio hunc 'sig file' veterem fieri.
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