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Re: connections to fault-diagnostic connectors
>Phil Rose wrote:
> Scott M. and others have provided very useful info on construction of the LED device(s) for reading fault codes. However the hard part for me comes while standing on my head beneath the dash trying to maintain reliable electrical contacts. Making/keeping good contact using just the bare wire ends doesn't work well for me. Are the plastic (mating connector) unitsavailable (as on VAG 1551)? Is a small spade connector best to use--which size?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
One thing I have done to avoid screwing around with the fault code
connections, is to permanently mount a simple (normally open, momentary)
push button switch within easy reach and connect the push button switch
across the two wires that connect to these fault code connectors for
initiating the fault code sequence. That way, all you have to do is turn
on the ignition, and then push the switch for 4 seconds to read out the
fault codes. To access the fault code connector wiring, the connector
block is bolted to the air plenum and can be pulled down by removing the
two 8mm head socket screws.
If you don't have the Check Engine light bulb, you can install the
light bulb back in the empty dash socket, so you don't need to make up
the LED light. On the 200TQ's you can pull the dash pod out slightly and
reach around the right side and insert this bayonet type bulb (1.2 Watt,
12V, with twist lock socket) into the spot for the check engine light,
The Check Engine light is the one in-between the Air bag light and the
door open light.
Another list member contacted CarComp who makes the VAG1551/2 emulation
software package to get the correct spade connectors for these fault
code connectors. I will check with Carcomp and see if these connectors
are still available.
HTH
--
Scott Mo.
1989 200TQ
1988 5000TQ
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo