Re: turbo oil lines & bomb/rack questions

[Aleksander Mierzwa <alex@matrix.com.pl>]

At 09:53 22.06.98 -0400, Richard Haroutunian wrote:

>I have 2 occasional leaks in my 5KCSTQ (87):  The braided oil lines that go
>to the turbo -- one is a bit corroded an is beginning to leak sometimes.
>
>Turbo Lines
>
>1.   I've heard est. that these (2) lines are approx. $250-300 apiece

True, and it seems outrageous to me, given the how crappy OE lines are.

>and are relatively simple to install.  Is this true?

Not usually, I'm afraid. The problem here is that the oil cooler is made of
aluminium and the line fittings are steel. This results in corrosion and
sometimes it's simply impossible to remove the lines without trashing the
cooler. The cooler can be repaired, though, by machining new fittings and
welding them at a reputable weld shop.

>Will I need special tools?  

Nope, just 22mm and 27mm open end wrenches, _lots_ of peterating oil and
eventually vise grips (but if you have to use vise grips, you can usually
already kiss that cooler goodbye)

>The area where the line attached looks rusty/corroded which makes
>me thinks it will, at the very least, be a bigtime hassle to deal with
>properly.

There's no problem with removing the lines from the engine block. The
problem is at the cooler.

>2.   How likely is it that these small leaks will cause performance
>problems with turbo/boost?  Will it get to a point where the line fails
>completely and leave me stranded somewhere? Or, will it just affect boost
>output?

Yes, the line will blow when you less expect it, causing the car to lose
all the oil in less than one minute - BTDT. Replace them NOW and inspect
the turbocharger supply and return lines as well.

>3.   WHERE can I purchase these lines cheaply -- without compromising
>quality-

Go to the nearest hose shop and let them install a new hose on the old
fittings.

>-e.g. no Indonesian parts!

Gee, why, after all they own Lamborghini, don't they? But wait, maybe
that's why this Martin guy couldn't get out of his car while rain was
pouring onto his head through a leaky roof. ;-)

>Power Steering Pump/Rack/Bomb/brakes
>
>You are all going to hem-and-haw at this one, but the car is too nice for
>me not to take care of this problem
>
>1.   I need to added pentosin mineral oil every 2 weeks or so when the
>brake! red triangle light comes on.  It only used to eat fluid every 6-8
>weeks -- but the frequency at which the car is needing the fluid is
>increasing rapidly.  It's addicted!  It needs more and more to get a buzz!
>Really folks -- what does this mean?

It means that the Pentosin is leaking out, what did you expect? ;-) And it
seems like you have a pretty big leak.

>2.   There are NO signs of any problems with steering/brakes at all.  There
>are no visible leaks near/coming from the pump -- yet it leaks somewhere in
>the center of the engine.  sometimes it 'spots' -- sometimes it leaks.  The
>pump does not make noise.

Find out where exactly is the leak coming from.

>3.   The rack issue was taken care of by previous owner approx. 3 years
>prior.

Which does not guarantee it hasn't developed a leak again.

>4.   What is a 'bomb,' 

Hydraulic pressure accumulator for brake servo

>where is it located,

Near the LH suspension, right over the subframe. Trace the thin line going
from the pump.

>how do I replace it,

An hour max, unless something is seized. The procedure is in the archives.
E-mail me privately if you can't find it.

> how much is it.,

$250 from independent, much more from the dealer. _Do_not_ buy a used one.
You have 80% chances of getting a dead one.

> and do I need it?

It does not have terrific effect on braking efficiency, so many people keep
driving with a dead bomb. I have replaced mine, though, and I'm glad I did.
P/N 857 612 061C

Aleksander Mierzwa
Warsaw, Poland
mailto:alex@matrix.com.pl
87 Audi 5000CS turbo (mine)
88 Renault Medallion wagon (mom's)
91 mountain bike (just in case both cars broke at the same time :-)