Re: rear-window defroster-connection

[Phil and Judy Rose <pjrose@servtech.com>]

Ron,
Did you actually get this epoxy to work for a window defroster contact?
I have wondered if there was a nice 'n easy conductive epoxy suited for
this. If Ford made it, them maybe their dealers use it. I'll check.

As to the ability to get the glass hot enough...well, dunno. There are two
small metal contact patches that are somehow bonded to the glass. I need to
make my solder joint to these small patches of metal. Doing it successfully
will require getting heat into them faster than the glass can conduct it
away (and without destroying the bonding agent that holds these contacts to
the glass). And without gravity helping the loose spade lug thingy to run
away.

You don't recall the name of that epoxy stuff do you? :)

Thanks,
Phil


>Phil...
> I have has success using an epoxie compound thaty had a copper substance
>in it for continuity.
>In fact as I recall Ford Motor made (or marketed) the product for precisly
>this application. I doubt you
>Will ever get the glass hot enough to melt the solder. Too much of a heat
>sink. I haven't looked for the product recently but it may also be
>available from the mass marketers.
> Good Luck
>  Ron Husak
>
>Message text written by INTERNET:quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>>Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 13:46:36 -0400
>From: Phil Rose <pjrose@servtech.com>
>Subject: rear-window defroster-connection
>
>Well, while waiting for some qlist BTDTs regarding resoldering a detached
>electrical connector to the edge of the rear window (gulp, it happened to
>the connector for the ground wire--on the right edge), I asked around
>locally. One auto glass repair guy said he doesn't try to do it "any more"
>because sometimes the window cracks (just replace the glass, he glibly
>advised). An Audi repair shop claimed to have some limited success doing
>the resoldering, but that their failures were not because the glass cracked
>(just bad solder-joints, I guess).
>
>So I'm inclined to give it a try myself in the near future (oh yeh, I'd
>best  get my ohmmeter out first and verify that there is good continuity
>>from the power connctor all the way to the ground connection point.)
>
>I have a 120W soldering gun and a 45W iron. Will probably use silver
>solder, which I assume will require low(est) heat. I think the 45 watt iron
>would be adequate (and safer), considering that the metal spade-connector
>is quite small and the glass is not a great heat conductor. Any words of
>warning or encouragement?
>
>Phil
>
>Phil Rose               Rochester, NY
>'89 100
>'91 200q                pjrose@servtech.com
>
>------------------------------
><


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