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Re: Lighting questions
Scott, IME, stock wiring is simply not heavy enough to carry such loads for
any length of time. Heat melts insulation causing shorts and possibly even
fires. Use the stock wiring to actuate relays which then drive your
brighter lights via heavy duty wiring installed for that purpose. You are
courting burning up a very expensive and high labor wiring harness.
At 04:31 PM 8/6/98 PDT, you wrote:
>>"quick and dirty" headlight aiming
>>procedure?
>
>Cover one light with something heat resistant, adjust the top of the
>beam on the other by shining it on a wall, garage door, etc. My 80watt
>low-beams are pretty much level, no complaints from oncoming traffic.
>DOT lights might recieve some complaints at level.
>
>>
>>2.) Does anyone think that a conversion to relays and upgraded wiring
>worth
>>the trouble with stock (9004) or mildly upgraded (9007) bulbs? If I'm
>not
>>going to see some noticeable improvement, I'm going to just hold off on
>>doing this until I get the Euro (H1/H4) lights.
>>
>
>If it doesn't help, you'll need the relays anyway for the eurolights. I
>highly recommend the eurolights for any real improvement, sometimes
>brighter is worse without better focus. I'm confident of my stock
>wiring, it's the stalk switch that's the weak point. It gets pretty
>warm carrying 440+ watts, so I'd say I'm losing power there, and I'm in
>danger of frying an expensive switch. I'm installing relays under the
>dash to feed the stock wiring. I may lose a couple volts by not going
>right from the alternator, but I really don't need any more light (or
>any more wiring).
>
>Scott
>'90 200tqw
>
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>
>
___
Bob
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* Robert L. Myers rmyers@inetone.net Home 304-574-2372/1166 *
* Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP *
* '95 S6 Cashmere Grey *
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