Re: Hunter equipment, wheel alignment ....

[Huw Powell <human@nh.ultranet.com>]

<original post pretty much deleted>

a few random half baked data points here...

When I finally went to use the new struts out of my parts car, they
wouldn't work - they are a smaller diameter than the oem ones that came
out, they needed some sort of shim to keep them centered.  Lots of
motion even when tight.  Bought a new set for $100, they were also
smaller dia but came with some tacky looking dished washers to go in the
bottom to keep them centered. I have no faith in that system.  Kept
original struts to compare to new ones someday.  The rear shocks were
also different enough to be a PITA.

FEA's - vary wildly in quality, depends on a lot.  They can be very
frustrating to do for a mechanic, I hate having my car worked on by a
frustrated mechanic.  Seized tie rod adjusters can be a big problem. 
Tie rods that are difficult to reach are bad enough.

I have had better results with "specialists" than with general garages. 
Makes sense I suppose.

I just dropped'n'swapped my subframe/control arms/sway bar (powder
coated, all new bushings), which necessitated a FEA (as did my recent
accident...).  Couldn't be done with my new wheels on the car!  They
didn't have an adequate lip on the edge for the FEA machine's sending
units to be clamped on to the wheels.

Also my lowering springs have resulted in the right ball joint having to
be set all the way out, still not quite enough camber.

A question: I know the Urq ball joints come in two versions, early ones
have round holes, the control arms are slotted for adjustment, leter
ones vice-versa.  Is there a later model ball joint that will fit my 2wd
coupe that is slotted, to give me extra adjustment range?  Anybody?

Thanks.

-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.thebook.com/human-speakers/audi-main.htm

"This is the place where death rejoices to teach those who live."

Usually it is written in Latin.