Re: WTB : I5 10V cranckshaft locking tool

[quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <3.0.5.32.19980923103002.00c69c30@phy.duke.edu> Andrei Kogan writes:

> I am going to change the timing belt on a 90q. If anybody has the locking
> tool for sale, please let me know. Also, I would appreciate any info on
> possible sources.

   This was put together by three helpful list members:


   I have finally(hope it's not too late) typed up the very short
procedure that I used to remove the "Crank Bolt w/o 2084." This
procedure is courtesy of me, but credit HAS to go to Commemorative
Design Coupe master Mike Tipton('M'). Here it is:

1. When everything is done and removed that has to be, turn engine to
TDC by finding the '0' mark on the flywheel AND the '-' scored on the
back of the camshaft gear and then lining them up to their proper
positions.
2. I then removed a single transmission bolt. It doesn't really matter
which one is removed, but for convience reasons I removed the one right
next to, or directly behind, the flywheel timing aperature. If one is
leaning against the left front quarter panel and looking at the timing
aperature on the side of the flywheel housing, then two or three inches
to the right in plain view is a transmission bolt securing the
transmission and the flywheel housing together. I removed this bolt and
moved on.... As an alternative, one can buy a 12mm thick bolt about 3
inches long.
3. It is now easy to locate the hole in the flywheel housing that allows
the removed bolt to be inserted into the flywheel itself. FYI, some
engines supposedly have rubber plugs in these holes, mine didn't. These
plugs can easily be removed. Directly below the bolt described above(the
one I removed), is another transmission bolt also used(in concentric
order) to secure the transmission and the flywheel housing together.
This bolt causes a bulge in the housings, and it is these bulges
combined with the general shape of the housings that make it impossible
to see the hole that the bolt needs to be inserted into. If a mechanic's
mirror(or any small...sneak into your woman's bathroom stash..mirror) is
available, then strategic placement allows a direct view into the holes.
Yes, hole'S'! There are two, but the one in front(closest to the
headlights...duh) is the hole that lines up with the holes in the
flywheel.
4. While the hole is in view in the mirror, slowly turn the engine using
the breaker bar looking for a corresponding hole in the flywheel. I
believe I turned my engine clockwise(while standing in front of the car
facing the rear. i.e. turning the breaker bar to the right and down)
only 15 to 20 degrees before a hole came into sight. The holes in the
flywheel are slightly larger than the transmission bolt(i.e. fairly
large and hard to miss if the engine is turning slowly) and should be
lined up perfectly for bolt insertion.
5. Insert bolt.
6. Break crankbolt loose!
7. Laugh at how EASY it was!! :-)

  _____   _____________     ____________________________________

  ALLAN   ampj@tiac.net      1986 COMMEMORATIVE DESIGN COUPE GT
  JONES   Burlington MA     169K Miles And Purrring Like A Lion!
  _____   _____________     ____________________________________

And Mike Tipton, of course.

--
 Phil Payne
 Phone: 0385 302803   Fax: 01536 723021
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