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Re: 5K A/C Programmer




> I've got a question or two for the experts out there about the operation
> of the "dreaded" AC Programmer (the little black box with all the air
> switches under the glove compartment).

> I've been improving a "no air out of the dash vents" problem.  First I
> found and corrected a couple of detached vacuum hoses.  That helped alot
> but I still got 50% failures on getting dash air.

Situation normal, climate control all goofy ;)

Here's the next thing to look for...

The recirculation door is behind the glove box, a rectangular door
in the firewall.  Remove enough trim to get to the door.  Carefully
remove the two screws (door is spring loaded and will probably slide
upwards), then reach behind to relieve the spring tension while
you rotate and release the piece of plastic which holds the spring.
(If your spring is broken, the door already fell off...)
Take a look inside.  There is a vacuum motor in there which operates
the door.  In my car, I found the vacuum pipe just lying at the bottom
in amongst the dead leaves.  (Required tool for this job is a vacuum
cleaner to suck out the debris before you get on your back on the floor
and have it fall in your face as you look up...)  The reason my
vacuum pipe was disconnected was the bracket that the motor attaches
to is _really thin plastic_ which looks like it wouldn't last five
minutes.  The bracket broke and then the motor pulled itself free.
Once disconnected, whenever the climate control asks for recirc,
you lose vacuum and other vents mysteriously close!

This particular problem is so prevalent that there is a kit
to repair it... a little metal bracket part # 200 272 200.
If your spring is broken, it is 443 271 241.  The seal on the
door is probably escaping to one side or the other - it is
# 433 271 263A.  All three are about $25 from Linda.
Linda decided I needed the 'kit' of all three... the new
spring was different and I definitely needed the other two.

Now putting that little bracket in is extremely entertaining...
I can get about 1 1/2 hands up in there.  You have to screw
the metal bracket to the plastic cross members that had the
old plastic bracket molded with them.  A good stern look
gets rid of the remains of the old bracket.  I used some
self tapping screws and drilled holes for them.  I suppose
you could get the screws in without drilling holes, but
I didn't try.  Of course, you can barely get a drill bit
in there... I have this little reversable screwdriver which
just happens to take a 3/32" drill bit.  I used it to drill
the holes.  Of course, the fins on the evaporator are waiting
for your knuckles should it or the screwdriver slip.
Screwdriver... the above mentioned reversable screwdriver
would have been far too wimpy for the self tapping screws,
but a 1/4" ratchet with a screwdriver bit will just fit
in there to get the screws in.  It just takes a while...

Now all that's left is to hook the vacuum motor back up,
(re)install the spring and put the door back on with it's
new seal.  And try to remember how to put all the bits
of trim back on that have been sitting in the garage for
two weeks waiting on the parts.

If you are lucky, it is the vacuum solenoids... and you'll find
nothing amiss behind the recirc door.

Orin.