Re: 20v TB

[Andrei Kogan <abk@phy.duke.edu>]

At 04:23 PM 10/19/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Andrei,
>I saw your post on your TB adventure. I was hoping you could give me some
>pointers.  I am buying a '90 90Q 20v next weekend and the car is due for a
>TB (68,000 miles).
>I plan to change the TB, water pump and idler pulley.  
>Did you change any more than that?  

No. I also left the idler pulley unchanged, since it was somewhat expensive
locally ($70) and appeared to be in good condition (no wobbling)

>Is there anything not obvious you needed and didn't have?

The tools I purchased while in the middle of it to complete the job:

Plastic black/red ramp extentions from Advance auto parts store to prevent
the bumper cover from hitting the ramps

Audi 2084 tool -- to lock the crankshaft in 1st cyl TDC. I will forward you
a procedure I got from phil payne  to get around this one, but I was really
glad I invested in it. 

Long 3/8" drive extension to get to the auxiliary radiator nuts from below

19 mm impact (black) socket w/ 1/2" drive + 1/2 "craftsman breaker-bar + a
5 foot piece of galvanised pipe --- to get the  cranck pulley bolt to 332
ft lb. 1/2" drive works fine, although factory recommends 1" and some
people use 3/4"

make sure you have a flex joint for your basic ratchet/socket set, some
bolts are hard to remove without it.

10mm offset  key to remove the lower tb cover bolts 

A "bent" L-shaped screwdriver is much more conveient to use when locking
the cam sprocket the TB cover stud than a straight screwdriver the way the
Bentley shows it. I used a "brake ajustment tool" I got for about $5  in
Sears.  I was able to keep the old belt on for safety and use this "tool"
to hold the cam pulley still at the same time while removing the screw

Nylon wire bundle ties --- very convenient for:

1. securing the hydraulic pump onto the radiator hoses to keep the damn
thing out of the way ( you need to remove the pivot screw, otherwise
having to get  around it SUCKS

2. Crimping the old belt before undoing the cam sprocket.


>Also, what special tools are required and did you find some way to get
>around using the special tools?
>I would like to do the change over the weekend so I want everything ready.
>I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.

Do not disconnect the battery without making sure you can unlock the radio
afterwards, like I did !! Has anyone tried to recover the radio from the
theft protection turned against a rightful owner.

If you can, use the 0 mark on the flywheel and not the notch on the cranck
pulley --- it is much more accurate. The notch alignment is sensitive to
the way you look at it. Maybe if you use a mechanic's mirror then the notch
would work as well

I didn't remove the auxiliary radiator from the system, just disconnected
it from the bracket it sits on and moved aside

I also had to remove that bracket (two-piece) and losen the bolts in the
lower cross-brace (painted piece) to get access to the rubber stop on the
harmonic balancer to move it forward about 1/2", otherwise the 2084
wouldn't fit.  

Good luck. If you know the sequence and don't waste time deciding if this
or that piece should come off, you should get it done in about 8 h or faster. 
 

 


>Thanks,
>Dave Kase
>Harrisburg, PA
>
>
>