Re: Idle Stabilization Valve (ISV), 88 5K

[rjandrew@post.cis.smu.edu (R Justin Andrews)]

Ok, check your intake boot... The one that runs from the Throttle body
back to the fuel distributor..... If there are ANY cracks it will cause
the symptoms above. Beware, these are a royal PITA to get back on correctly.
Once you do it a few times though it gets easy.

HTH,
Rich Andrews
rjandrew@Post.cis.smu.edu
> 
> 
> Your reply-to was wrong in your original mail.  Thought I would follow
> up with it right so you'll get any replies.  From my *limited*
> understanding you found and cleaned the ISV, but I'll wait to hear
> what the experts out here say. 
> 
> Todd 
> todd@connact.com
> --------
> >My car has mostly been idling around 1200 rpms.  This is after warm up and
> >without A/C.  Took off a gray cylindrical thing with 2 ports to vacuum and
> >one electrical connector.  It is on top of the intake manifold, at the
> >back.  It was marked:
> >
> >	BOSCH
> >
> >	0 280 140 512
> >                             
> >Made in Germany  (011)  12V
> >
> >VW  034 133 455B
> >
> >Cleaned it out with carburetor cleaner.  There seems to be another cylinder
> >inside which rotates.  After cleaning, it rotated pretty freely.  
> >
> >Is this the ISV?  Car seems to idle lower, but I really did not get a
> >chance to run it much.  
> >
> >The car also "jerks" at light throttle - on and off the gas.  This is
> >especially pronounced in lower gears in stop and go traffic.  I can also
> >feel it to a lesser extent in higher gears at higher speeds.  Maybe some of
> >this is driveline "slop", but does the ISV contribute to this?  I thought I
> >read something here about the ISV smoothing out the on/off throttle.  What
> >does the ISV do?  How much do they cost?  How does one test it?
> >
>