Re: PLEASE HELP!!! Trouble Codes for an 1988 Audi 90

[Hugh Farfan <dpch@tbol.net>]

Its getting spark and gas, but it is still not starting, any more
suggestions???  TIA

Robert Myers wrote:

> Hugh,
>
> A well adjusted Audi engine will normally start within about two
> revolutions of the starter motor.  (Quickly, in other words.)
>
> Sounds like a possible fuel related problem.  Also possibly an ignition
> problem.
>
> Check to see that there actually is spark at the plugs.  Pull a plug wire
> and insert a screwdriver blade into the lead connectro.  Then place the
> screwdriver close to something metal on the engine.  See if there is a
> spark jumping from the screwdriver to the engine.
>
> Caution!  High voltage!  Be sure the screwdriver is pretty well insulated.
> It won't actually damage you but it will sure get your attention.
>
> If spark is present then the fuel systm just isn't delivering fuel.  If
> there is no spark then we need to check more.  Pull the center wire to the
> distributor.  Check for spark there.  (Probably no difference between this
> location and at the plugs.)  Check the coil.  Make sure that all wires are
> connected.  Do you have a meter?  If so, check to seel that there actually
> is +12 volts at the input connector of the coil.  (The output is the heavy
> wire going to the distributor.)  There will be two other wires attached to
> the coil.  One provides +12 volts.  The other is ground.  (There may also
> be another wire for the tach.)
>
> Water in the fuel frozen and blocking flow?  You'll have to judge this one.
>  Add some Dry-Gas?
>
> Leaking injectors?  This will cause a reluctant start but shouldn't prevent
> a start completely.
>
> Fuel pump itself?  Fuel pump relay?
>
> Have someone else turn the ignition on while you are listening inside the
> trunk.  You should be able to hear the fuel pump.  If not, pull the FP
> relay and insert a wire jumper across the load leads.  Does the FP run now?
>  If so, start the car.  If not, the FP may be bad.  This would be unusual.
> The common failure mode involves a rather long term gradual development of
> noise until it finally gives up.
>
> Disconnect the fuel line after the filter.  See if fuel flows when the
> ignition is turned on.  Caution!  Fire hazard.  Don't let it run long and
> provide some sort of container to catch the fuel.  Flow rate should be
> fairly high.  If it isn't, try disconnecting the line before the filter and
> repeat the test.  If flow rate is significantly higher, the fuel filter is
> plugged.
>
> Take a close look at all the rubber under the hood.  See if you can spot
> something which might obviously be leaking air into the induction system.
> Excessively lean fuel mixtures won't ignite very well.
>
> Good luck.
>
> At 10:48 PM 1/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >My car has been driving fine up till  now.  As I pulled into my parking
> >lot the car began to lose a little power on acceleration.  After I
> >parked the car and turned it off I decided to restart it and drive it
> >again to see if the loss of power was still there, it wasn't as
> >noticeable.  So I just parked it and left it there for about 3 weeks,
> >(went on vacation).  When I try to start it, it won't start, the engine
> >just turns but it wont catch, the battery is fully charged, I tried to
> >start it a numerous amount of times but she wouldn't start.
> >I am in New York, so I was wondering if the frigid weather could be
> >playing a part in this saga.
> >    I thought I might try to pull any codes from the system, but I am
> >not sure on the exact procedure or the codes themselves.  Yes I know I
> >should buy a Bentley manual, but I haven't had the time nor money.  (I
> >am in college now.)  I hope that this is an easy fix.  Any advise would
> >be greatly appreciated. Please Help, thanks in advanced.
> >
> >
> >
> ___
>    Bob
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