re: Type 44 steering rack R&R..

[Dave Conner <conner@cfm.ohio-state.edu>]

On Mon, 25 Jan 1999 you wrote:
Judging from the puddle under my father's '91 100 when I borrowed it to run
for lunch this afternoon, it appears the leak in the hydraulic system that I
haven't been able to track down is, in fact, the rack itself...

I know somebody around here found a good deal on rebuilt racks but I can't
access the computer I stored that info on at the moment ... if anybody can
provide me with a name and number, I'd appreciate it.  Also, if anyone has any
pointers, I'd appreciate those as well since I've never had to do this job
before.
Thanks!
JG


Jeffrey,
Your father sounds like a lucky guy to have you keeping an eye on his car
like this.

Check out the Repair Index on the 20VT web site for excellent "How to"
info.  It's at...
http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html

Also, the thread on Jan 5 & 6, entitled "Steering Rack Rebuild" has a bunch
of good info re: doing the job.
Others have already posted the phone # for Jorgen, in Michigan.
I did this a couple months ago on my 89 100 with a Jorgen rack.  It was a
real pleasure dealing with them.  I ordered the rack on Wednesday, it was
on my doorstep the next day.  their shipping charge includes a call tag for
returning the core.  Just slip the old rack in the same box the new one
came in, call Fed-Ex and they pick it up w/no added charge or hassle.
Also, Jorgen attaches a couple of warning tags to the rack to alert you to
common mistakes, like reversing the pressure and return lines at the rack.
This is an easy mistake to make and will destroy the new rack.  They also
include instructions for flushing the system.  New O-ring seals for the
hoses also come with the rack.  One thing to remember is to trial fit
everything together outside the car, especially the steering column thingy.
 Make sure it slides onto the new rack easily before putting the rack into
the car.  The thing I had the most trouble with is getting the tie rod
bolts started in the new rack after the rack was in the car.  It might be
better to attach the tie rods to the rack first and then install, but I
don't know whether it will fit that way.  The way I finally got the bolt
started was to clamp the tie rod bracket onto the rack with a zip tie,
holding it firmly in place while I started the bolt.

Bentley says to replace the banjo bolts too.  My theory about the reason
for this is Bentley assumes the little filters in some of the bolts are
going to be clogged and the crud is related to the rack failure.  It may be
difficult or impossible to successfully clean these filters for re-use.
The fluid in my car has been changed before and the system and filters
looked pretty clean, so right or wrong,  I didn't replace the banjo bolts
on mine.  

Clean the reservoir and the filter inside it.  Brake cleaner or engine
degreaser works well.

HTH,
Dave C.