Re: 2-4kq's stumbling when cold

["Ken Keith" <ken.keith@specialdevices.com>]

quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne) wrote:
> 
> They oftem come off when injectors are pulled past hardened seals.  One
> part of the 'injector pulling' task is to check that the seat and lower
> shroud are clear.  These days, I routinely wind out the seat after I've
> pulled the injector just to check.  The seats on the MB engine are 13mm
> Allen - I've ground the shank of a FACOM D.107-13 so it's an _exact_ fit
> in the upper part of the seat.  I think the 4k and WR/WX engines are
> 12mm.

Is there any benefit to replacing the seat seals?  I didn't touch the seats 
when I did my injector seals on my last Coupe.  I almost seemed like the seats 
would have broken if I tried to remove them.  Maybe new seats and seat seals 
would finish off the job pretty tidily.
 
> At least the later engines always have a lower shroud (035 133 554) that
> catches the injector tip if it drops off.  I think the three small dots
> in the side walls of the injector, near the end, are there to indicate
> how far the tip should be pressed on.

That sounds reasonable.  The seat might catch the tip.  I would check for 
that.

> The Viton seals are best put on, IME, using a pair of 'stork' pliers.
> Just slip the seal onto the nose of the (closed) pliers, force the
> jaws open a little, and jam your forearm between the handles.  Then just
> work the tip of the injector through the (stretched) seal.  Takes a
> couple of seconds per injector.

Sounds like that would work well.  I wasn't sure how much I could stretch them 
without damaging them.  

I did mine the hard way.  I thought the dimples in my fingertips would never 
pop out.  (they did, btw)

Ken