Re: Wandering, Negative Steering Roll Radius?

[Luis Marques <marques@rtis.ray.com>]

Huw Powell wrote:
> So a little while back a lister whose name I forgot unloaded a good 
> one on us - to set up the camber on the 4k etc, max out both ball 
> joints, loosen the subframe bolts, and adjust the subframe position 
> to equalise the camber L-R.  I bet one could at the same time 
> maximise/equalise the caster, no?

That lister was me ;)  I'm not sure how much adjustment ther is by moving the
subframe, but you should have good bushings, or else all your hard work would
be for nothing.   If they pull the subframe forward, it will add a little more caster.

> This really caught my eye because since putting lowering springs on 
> my coupe aligning it has resulted in one ball joint having to be all 
> the way out, and not being quite far enough out.

BDTD.  It seems that either the subframe moves around from time to time.  It
is often ignored when an alignment is done.

> I will be hassling the shop that does my next alignment into trying
> this...

Treat them well if they are in fact willing to work with you.

> Should I also get a little extra toe in since I'm running foolishly 
> wide tires on less offset rims?

Be carefull with too much toe.  For better turn in, less is better (with zero
being the limit on a daily driver), but the car will tend to wonder on the
highway.  A little more toe will help it track straght, but too much toe and
you will wear the inside of the tires in a hurry.  Better stay within factory
specs here.

It all adds up.  Caster, toe, offset, tire width - they all affect stability. 
It's better to adjust them all a little than making drastic changes in just
one setting.

Luis Marques
'87 4kcsq