5 cyl timing belt questions

[Wallace White <wallace@remdesign.com>]

I'm getting ready to change my timing belt, water pump, idler, and
crankshaft seal this weekend. After reading the instructions from Scott
Mockry and the Bentley (in order of helpfulness) and the one on the
list's web page, I've still got a couple of questions:

- Crankshaft bolt torque. I have the locking tool (2084) and the
extension (2079), thanks for the generosity of Gurdev Sethi. I have read
many times that the correct torque with the extension is 258 ft-lbs. I
take that to mean that you should set your torque wrench for 258
ft-lbs--but that doesn't make any sense to me. You have to consider the
length of the torque wrench, right?

I've read 330 ft-lbs as the specified torque at the bolt (I believe that
was from Phil Payne, based on RR documentation--please let me know if
that's the wrong value). Using that number, a torque wrench length of
17.2" in my case, and an extra offset of 11.7" (my measurement) for the
2079 extension, I calculate that the torque setting on my wrench, Tw,
should be:

      Tw  =  (330 ft-lbs) * (17.2") / (17.2" + 11.7")  =  196 ft-lbs

Am I going about this correctly?

- Locking compound vs. corrosion inhibitor on crankshaft bolt. At least
one message has said to put a locking compound on the bolt, while the
Bentley calls for corrosion inhibitor AMV 188 000 (actually, it uses
different numbers of different pages...). Is a general anti-seize the
right thing to use here, on the upper threads and face?

- Water pump O-ring. I've read that it should be glued in place; if so,
what kind of glue is appropriate?

I think that'll do it for now. If anyone has another good write-up of
the procedure, I'd love to read it too. TIA.

- Wallace
  '87 5kcstq 152k