RE: 5 cyl timing belt questions

["Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>]

> - Crankshaft bolt torque. I have the locking tool (2084) and the
> extension (2079), thanks for the generosity of Gurdev Sethi. I have read
> many times that the correct torque with the extension is 258 ft-lbs. I
> take that to mean that you should set your torque wrench for 258
> ft-lbs--but that doesn't make any sense to me. You have to consider the
> length of the torque wrench, right?
> 
The length of the torque wrench doesn't matter, what does matter is that the
shaft of the torque wrench remain in line with the tool.  Do you actually
have a 3/4" drive torque wrench?  I've always made do without one in the
past, but I recently picked one up from eBay for a really cheap price (got a
3/4" drive ratchet there too).  

> - Locking compound vs. corrosion inhibitor on crankshaft bolt. At least
> one message has said to put a locking compound on the bolt, while the
> Bentley calls for corrosion inhibitor AMV 188 000 (actually, it uses
> different numbers of different pages...). Is a general anti-seize the
> right thing to use here, on the upper threads and face?
> 
No, it is a thread locking compound.  Years ago I had a real struggle
finding the Loctite number specified.  I ended up getting a bottle of a
similarly numbered Loctite product from Carlsen that was used to hold the
crank pulley bolts on Porsches ... comes in an orange squeeze bottle ...

> - Water pump O-ring. I've read that it should be glued in place; if so,
> what kind of glue is appropriate?
> 
... nope, you just need to be sure that the flat surface on the front of the
block is smooth in the area on which the o-ring will slide as you adjust the
belt tension.  IME you'll see a little bit of corrosion eating into the
surface at the location where the old seal was.  

HTH!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)