Re: 4000 Quattro and other stuff...

[Paul Heneghan <paul.heneghan@bbc.co.uk>]

From: Brendan/Coolian <coolian@thecia.net>

>2.) Oil Temp Sending Unit - I have a leak above a piece behind a 
>conglomeration of belts near the front of the engine, in front of the oil 
>pan.  I can identify the piece as a rubber-booted oil temp sending unit 
>with a wire popping out the bottom.  I'm going to replace this and see if 
>the leak stops.  Anyone done this and what can I expect?

Almost all the leaks that I've come across despite appearing to come from
one specific place ended up as actually coming from the valve cover gasket.
This needs to be replaced OFTEN.  Consider the modern (neoprene?) type
instead of the old cork type if you can get your hands on one.

>3.) Suspension - As soon as the taxes come in, I'll be paying off the bills

>and getting a new suspension on Suzanne.  What is involved in the ball 
>joint replacement?  They've never been changed before....Tie rod 
>ends?  I'll be doing the Boge TG-H&R springs treatment and I was 
>thinking....Someone on this list makes custom made lift kits for Audi's and

>he says he could make me a 1" rear lift for the saggy ass of my 4kq....I 
>think it'll look better and (ego) a little more aggressive.  Anyone think 
>this is a good/bad idea?

Ball joint replacement - easy.  Just make sure you get a proper alignment
done afterwards.  I would also replace the wishbone (A-arm to Americans)
bushes at the same time - they are notorious for disintegrating.  Do the
strut top bearing while you are there also.

Due to replacing two broken front springs a couple of years ago for lowered
ones, I had an aggressive looking 80q.  I didn't like the image of it ("fur
coat and no knickers" to use a local expression).  I later changed all the
springs for PI ones.  These lowered the suspension a little which I would
rather not do as I like a reasonable amount of ground clearance, but the car
looks very good.

>5.) Differential - My rear diff will STILL not unlock after about 2 weeks 
>of staying locked.  It's getting to be annoying when I reverse or go around

>slow corners, the skip-skip is getting to me.  I've been told to check the 
>vacuum lines, but I really have no idea where they are...I'm only useful in

>summer and I don't have a lift.

Crawl under the car and operate the diff lock manualy  (If you are using a
jack to raise the car make sure there is no way it can fall on you.  My 80 q
fell on me a few years agowhen all four axle stands leaned over and it was
not a very pleasant experience).  My centre diff didn't want to unlock for a
while.  I had to reverse with a lot of acceleration to persuade it to
unlock.  I initially suspected vacuum problems or a rusted cable, but found
that it was due to collapsed rear diff mountings - these were presumably
putting a strain on the cable and this prevented it from returning to the
rest position.

Good luck.

Paul