Re: A new tool suggestion

[Eric Maxon <emaxon@megsinet.net>]

I use the lever style "ball joint separator" tool sold by, of all
places, JC Whitney for $15.99.
The upper jaw is forked on the end and fits over the rubber boot of the
ball joint.  
The lower jaw presses the threaded end of the ball joint shaft out of
whatever.  
The right end of the jaws close when the lead screw ( = ) on the left
end is tightened.  
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The tool is definately poorly made-- it's stretched so badly after about
30 uses that I have to use a spacer block between the end of the lead
screw and the lower jaw, but it still gets the job done.

VIVA ASCII ART!!!!

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Side view

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=O==========-----   <- note gap in top half of tool
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Top view

Save yourself the trouble of making one and jump on this $16 beaut'.

Damn... no catalog handy-- try 800 555 1212.  I've got their Chicago #
here: (312) 431-6102

I've never seen this little beaut' at any local parts stores or tool
supply houses, but you may find it.  I've used it successfully on all
sorts of tie rod ends, ball joints, drag links, you name it... including
rear ball joints on 4000 quattros.

There is one other tool I can think of that would work well, (don't you
dare use a pickle fork or a hammer!) but you'll spend about $70 on it. 
It's the puller tool that comes with the Hub Shark kit that you're
supposed to use to remove inner races from pulled hubs-- look for Hub
Shark, made by Old Forge online for a picture of it.  JC whitney sells
one of these too-- on the same page??  This one works like a traditional
2 jaw gear puller, but the jaws are made to get into very tight spots--
I've also used it with great success on ball joints, (just used it for
Mercedes 190E tie rods & pitman arm.)

Also, look forward to having to extract the bolts that hold the ball
joint into the struts-- maybe even having to drill them out (after they
break off flush and you've broken all of your drill bits and easy-outs)
and rethread the holes.  I once went through $50 worth of carbide drill
bits extracting bits of easy-out and drill bit stuck in one of those GD
bolt holes.

Last, if you're just trying to pop the already separated, already
unbolted ball joint out of the bottom of the strut, just grab a nice
sharp cold chisel and have at the edge-- works every time.

Eric.


Steven Hill wrote:
> 
>     I have a suggestion for an invaluable tool, well, invaluable if,
> like me, you are soon replacing the rear ball joints on a 4Kq.  The
> factory tool is nice, being a split unit, but noone I know actually has
> one, or has really ever replaced the joints...I just replaced the rear
> bearings and looked at the ball joints and they have seen better days.
> 
> I am fabbing a tool for the job, and will let anyone interested know how
> it works and how to make it foolproof (as it is going to be 'fooly'
> tested and evaluated soon).
> 
> Steve Hill
> $Kq

-- 
The Manicured Mechanic's time & $$$ go here...
'86 5kcs, '85 4ksq, '84 4ks, (insert '83 Urq here... please:)
dust & bird droppings collect here...
'82 4ks, '81 Tercel SR5, '80 Scirocco