Re: I-5 10v NA power?

[Todd Phenneger <phen9461@uidaho.edu>]

>Hairy green toads from Mars made Wm. Josiah Erikson say:
>HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!
>Can't really be done without effectively building a new motor.

	Agreed there, sort of.  REad on.

>Put in a new low-restriction exhaust, and a Schrick cam, and
>a K&N filtercharger, that will be good for about 20 more HP,
>but at a cost of drivability and idling and low-end torque.
>Cost is about $1500 total.

	Agreed there, except if the car is tuned properly it doesn't
really stumble at all down low.  In fact, somone on the list has one and
they posted pretty well tested 30-50, 50-70 times in 3rd, 4th, 5th gears
before and after cam install with nothing else done and the results were
nice.  
	Virtually no power loss below 4k, but above 4k it was noticably
quicker.  I think this was with a 272 cam but I'm not sure.  Idle sounded
a BIT rougher but not bad.  BUT, add a vacuum leak into the equation and
the stumbles multiply.  Cam'ed motor is MUCH more finicky to vacuum leaks
than a stock one is.

>The 10V NA motor is not really tunable, I have one myself.                     

	Not.  It is, just for more money than a turbo motor is.  I belive
Mik has a coupe with over 150hp and there is Red coupe in the NW that is
FAST.  In fact, Pat Martin with his 4ktq (stock boost) and John Karasaki
with his (then stock ur-q) had this guy running up their tail pipes on the
straight away, (and in the corners) at a local track event.  Now that John
has a k-24 I doubt the coupe could challenge him but with the stock ur-q
it could  It is 500 lbs lighter so with 150hp it was FAST.  THink Corrado
fast.
	Anyhow, to do this requires a 2.3l motor instead of the 2.2.  This
can be done very easily as the motor just drops right in. But, you have to
wire i a knock sensor as the motor is a 10:1 compression motor. You CAN
bore or Stroke the 2.22 as well (as Duane said, a full re-build for power)
but I think the easiest way is to do the 2.3 swap.  THen do a clutch and
Lightened flywheel at the same time.  Or, do a 2.3 with a VW 2.5 Vanagon
Crank in it.  (I DONT know if this would work, just a speculation)
	Now, you have 130hp.  Do the upgrades Duane mentioned.  Filter,
exhaust, Cam and your at 145 maybe.  Now, before you do that cam, when the
motor is still out of car, maybe port that head.  Do it yourself with $100
worth of tools and an Air Compressor, then CC heads, and have a 5-angle or
radiused Valve Grind done, resurface head and EM, and you are set.  I
would think 150-160hp is now do-able.  Of course if you have a 100 or
80/90 or late 5kq then you have the 2.3 liter motor already which makes it
easy.
	For info on porting check back in the January Digests for a string
I had on it.
	L8R  Hope this helps a little.  I have decided to go the turbo
route as I think it wont be that much more trouble and while a tuned NA
motor can keep up with a Stock Turbo, a Tuned Turbo will leave any NA in
the dust.  
	Oh, and if you hate turbo lag, well, the 20v NA motor is Horrible
and it doesn't even have a turbo.  NO low end torque.  Better stick with
10v if you want around town torque down low.  OR a 20v Turbo. :-)
	L8R

	Todd Phenneger
	1984 4000s quattro / modified/ awaiting Turbo Transplant.
	1985 4000 quattro / Silver / Fixing it Up.
	1987 4000cs quattro / Saphire Metallic Blue/ Girlfriend's
	1996 A6q / Volcano / Dads Car
   *****1985 5kt / PARTING OUT!