RE: 4000 Quattro and other stuff..

[Todd Phenneger <phen9461@uidaho.edu>]

On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Brendan/Coolian wrote:

> The tire testosterone is squirting....I'm running the OEM multi-spoked rims 
> right now, so my choices are limited...I'll be going to the 15's, so my 
> Dunlop world will probably open up...I live up in New England, so I'll need 
> strong, good-looking, inexpensive 15" rims and nice all-seasons...*I know I 
> know...*

	Didn't mean to sound like I was preaching or cocky.  Sorry.  
I would look heavily into the Yoko 509.  They are sweet and KILL the D-60s
in performance.  BUT, if you are keeping the 14" wheels why not put some
snows or good All-seasons on there and put something better on 15's.  Or,
put 509's on 14" for now and then when you have the money go with 15's and
somethign sweet?

> My mechanic says *insert really thick Asian accent here* "Oh boy, BIG JOB, 
> BIG job"...Are we saying this is not true?  I doubt he lied, probably just 
> doesn't know...I thought the brake lines went all the way down to the 
> calipers....Was I wrong?
k
	They do go to the calipers.  But you only replace the RUBBER part.
Not the metal tubing that makes up most of the Brake system.  Only about
10" long depending on Caliper setup and very easy.  I dont see whats so
hard.  You need a 14mm, 15mm, 13mm, 10mm?? and maybe a few other wrenches
and your set.  Oh, and 7 or 8mm closed end wrenches for the bleeder
screws.  Get new bleeders and replace when you do this.  If they are old
you MAY break one and THAT causes problems.  So, work carefully. Soak in
WD-40 an hour before starting.  Carefully remove bleeders and replace.
Makes bleeding go much quicker to. ANd if the OEM Rubber protective boots
are missing replace them too.  Keeps bleeder clean.    You may also want
to replace bleeders for MC, Prop Valve, and Clutch Slave.  Good idea to
bleed this when your down there and a new Bleeder makes it much easier as
its hard to reach.
	l8r

	Todd