RE: fuse box upgrade

["Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>]

I've got an idea I've been kicking around on this one myself ... let me toss
it out to see what folks think and if there is any BTDT.  

>From my point of view the only real improvement afforded by the swap is that
you will get the blade-style fuses, which means a better electrical
connection on each and every fuse in the box.  The same type of relays and
connectors seem to be used, so unless Audi decided to derate the connector
pins there isn't anything inherently more reliable about the underhood box
as compared to the "Rabbit-style" (yes the ur-q has exactly the same P/N as
my '78 Audi Fox or a VW Rabbit!) under dash unit.  From what I have found
the underhood fusebox has a separate case to protect it from the elements
and the fusebox itself is held in place by a couple of plastic clips.  

I have a basic aversion to consideration of any modification that would
provide yet another port by which the outside elements can find their way
into the interior of my car, so what I was thinking was that if I were to do
such a conversion I would mount the new fusebox in the same location as the
original fusebox without hacking a hole in the body of the car.  Has anyone
else attempted the switch in this way?  I was also wondering if there was
any compatibility of the connectors and pinouts between the old style and
the new style.  Finally, I wondered if the new style fuseboxes were
universal as well ... it seems as though the one in my 4kSQ looks an awful
lot like the one in the 5kCSQA.  I know the V8 is considerably different ...
and in fact I really like the way that Audi redid the fusebox in the V8 ...

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

	----------
	In a message dated 99-03-11 22:03:18 EST, human@nh.ultranet.com
writes:

	<< I may try to do this in a few months; so I'm looking for hints
and tips
	 from those who have btdt.  This of course means putting the
underhood
	 fusebox in a car that came with the underdash version.  I presume
it
	 basically involves cutting a hole and splicing about 100 wires?
	  >>

	I'm going to play that game with my ur-q when I redo the motor. My
preference
	is to change out the entire harness Vs splicing in a box. You've got
three
	different harness' to deal with, the tail(easy), dash, and engine
bay. Then
	you've updated to late factory spec and still retain OEM diagnostic
	capability. I'll just have to have somebody steady my wrist while I
make the
	first cut into the cowl/firewall! 

	I think Steve Eiche's in the middle of this process, maybe he'll
comment on
	the ease of process so far.

	-Regards,
	Chris Semple
	'83 ur-q w/blown motor