RE: Alternator R&R and upgrades

[QSHIPQ@aol.com]

Those looking for upgrading their alternator output, ck q-list archives (good
luck) for DeWitt Harrison's posts on this upgrade (.  You will need a minimum
of a newer style front engine mount and 2 10mm mounting bolts.  Some will also
need the new lower alternator/ac bracket as well.  Please note too, Mr. Head,
that new alternators using the Audi PN system are NOT necessarily the rebuilt
ones.  The rebuilts use Bosch's rebuild exchange numbers.  The 110amp audi
(later 200 style) alternator is the 179X.  The 179X lists at 350bux and is an
EXCHANGE item (gotta have one to get one).  New is 700+ btw, but no exchange.

BTW, several have rebuilt the 90 amp units to outperform the 110amp units
(incl. Avi Meron - archives).  Not a bad alternative, however, my experience
is that 9 times out of 10, the alternator capacity really isn't the problem,
so throwing more amps at the system may just help you short term.  

Having done several of these conversions, as well as several other alternator
fixes in the last 6 months, some btdt suggestions.  Go to Scott M's page and
read about the electrical gremlins (specifically the splice at the firewall).
A good comparo, is voltage at the A/C head vs alternator vs battery (loaded vs
unloaded)  Check for high voltage draw after shutdown (lots of afterrun
circuits have come up bad for me).  In my opinion, one should avoid the Sears
Batteries, I've had several cars that had new batteries with dead cells.  The
Autobahn battery is now made by exide, and is really the best baseline IMO
(110USD list price).  Always replace the alternator belt (most are 11.2 X
820mm).  The most common failure of the adjustment bolt teeth is from a
misaligned alt to A/C bracket.  Loosen the 3 bolts (motor, alt arm, A/C comp)
before adjustment.  This is also a good time to clean the electricals at the
starter too.  All stock Alternator wiring goes to the starter first.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ@aol.com
Chicago, IL
'87 5ktqwRS2
'84 Urq
'87 4Runner turbo