Re: Amp. v Voltage

[QSHIPQ@aol.com]

Avi writes:
>1. It is taken for granted that your electrical system is OK (right?)

A big "for granted" Avi.  The occurences I see really aren't do to a bad or
faulty alternator.  Bad batteries on occasion.  If you see good voltage at
your jump terminal, and 2 volt drop (even 1 volt drop) by the time you go to
the battery (and usually worse by the time you get to the A/C head), I argue
the alternator isn't the problem.  We are talking about cars coming up on
10years old or older.  Amazingly enough, a lot of alternators are the original
tagged alts that I have done the R&R on.  Amazingly enough, a lot of
alternator R&R's last a year or so, and go again.  If an original alt lasted
8years in original form, the capacity is most likely not the problem.  

If you have a voltage drop to the battery, the alternator will operate at 100%
of it's capacity 100% of the time.  Putting a higher VR or higher output alt,
won't change this, it might mask or delay the problem, but it doesn't change
it.

Again, I advocate that you read Scott M. pages on this subject.  Avi what you
offer can be a good idea.  My experience has been that the 90amp alts are
fine, the 110 amps are fine, I certainly question why one would dump serious
money into a 110 amp conversion for a whopping 15 amps (most 110 I've tested
go 100) of power.  You could do a lot better by addressing the electrical
system in the car.  

My .02

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ@aol.com
Chicago IL
'87 5ktqwRS2 (90amp stocker w/33amp draw with euro highs on)
'84 Urq (90amp stock)
'87 4Runner turbo (45amp stock)