Re: Clutch pedal "sticking"

["D.A.K." <dak-ignore@rochester.rr.com>]

I had this happen on my '87 5KTQ. I think it was from the master leaking and
when it ran out of fluid, it would not return. If the leak is still slow, you
might be able to get going again by topping up the brake fluid (cause it is
used for the clutch circuit). I did replace mine with the OEM (F.A.G.) part
bought locally for $55. They tried to match the $49 price from Rod, so with
shipping figured in, I bought locally. If you have the old style with the
one mounting bolt "covered" by the supply line, you'll >HAVE< to cut a piece
of 8mm allen wrench (about 1/2 inch long). Using that and an 8mm wrench
was the only way I could reach it. The new MC had the supply line offset
from the mounting bolt (good thinking)!

Good luck,
   David


Andrew Duane USG wrote:
> 
> Hairy green toads from Mars made Pat Martin say:
> 
> > The question is, is there a way to tell the differance between the slave and
> > the master going south?  The beater has a clutch that cannot be held down
> > for any amount of time without staying down.  If I shift quickly it is fine
> > but when I hold it it sticks.
> 
> Well, it got worse :-(
> 
> The clutch is now inoperative. The pedal sinks to the floor,
> and there is no clutch action at all. Luckily, I can shift
> without a clutch (drove VWs for years).
> 
> --
> 
> Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7)                 duane@zk3.dec.com
> Compaq Computer Corporation             (603)-884-1294
> 110 Spit Brook Road
> M/S ZKO3-3/U14
> Nashua, NH    03062-2698
> 
> Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too psychotic to express it

-- 

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