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Re: Finally...



At 00:13 99-04-28 -0400, M G Hadden wrote:

>2.2 or 2.3?
>
>	My insurance co. told me that my car was a 2.3, but I'm not sure how to
>tell what it is?  Apparently the software can tell from the VIN, which
>starts with WAUFCO442...

It's most likely the 2309cc (2.3l) 136hp engine. To tell this for sure, we
need the first two letters from the engine number (you'll find it on the
left hand side of the engine block). If it reads NFxxxxx, then it's the
2.3l engine. Take note that Audi has an annoying habit of calling the
earlier 2226cc motors as "2.3l", which is pretty much confusing, as some
later engines are 2309cc (truly 2.3l).

>	My mechanic in MN (Diercks'), had an estimate written up to fix the A/C.
> What was on the estimate is "Heater programmer motor".  What is this,
>and is this the correct title? The A/C worked fine for me in Minnesota,
>but it only pushes cold air out near th windshield vents, and on the side
>vents near the radio speakers.  Now that I have the car in Florida, I
>need the A/C to work properly, it doesn't blow air through the side
>vents, or the vents above the A/C controls.  Will fixing the "programmer
>motor" fix this problem?

Your mechanic is probably right. The flaps which control the airflow are
actuated by little vacuum-operated motors. If the motor which actuates the
flap directing the airflow to the particular vents fails, the flap will
rest at the default position, which directs air to the defroster vents. 

>Rear Defroster
>
>	Mine just recently quit working, and I have no idea why?  I have
>replaced the fuse and it didn't help.  How can I find out where this
>problem is?

Maybe the switch is faulty. There's no relay for the rear defroster and the
switch takes the whole current.

>Flushing the radiator...
>
>	My Hayne's book tells me that to flush the radiator, I should disconnect
>the hoses to the engine and drain my coolant.  My neighbor told me that I
>can cut the hose from engine to the heater, and insert a T-piece with a
>screw cap, for a water hose to flush the system.  This baffles me!!!  I
>only ask, because I need to drain and refill my coolant system with the
>proper mixture.

Your neighbor's method would probably work, but I can't see any advantage
to the regular method.

>	The Audi tag on the expansion tank says to use only special coolant. 
>We've (previous owners' and me) been using normal Prestone.  Is this
>ruining my car?

The tag actually says to use phospate-free coolant and also lists the p/n
for the genuine Audi coolant. AFAIK most coolants currently on the market
(including Prestone) are phosphate-free. If it reads "phosphate-free" on
the label, it's OK for your car.

>	When I had to replace a cracked expansion tank back in Nov '98, I
>noticed the top of it had VW and AUDI logos.  After a call to the VW
>dealer with the part number, he told me to call the Audi dealer here in
>Melbourne.  I was unaware of an Audi dealership, because they were new
>here while I was away in Minnesota.  After a call there, they told me the
>same part was $20 more.  I bought my new tank from VW.  I've learned to
>call Audi for the part number, and then calling VW to order it.  Does
>anyone know of a place where I can order cheap parts without having to
>deal with either dealership?  

See the vendor list at http://www.audifans.com/quattro/tech/parts_vendors.html

>	Now I need to replace the orange piece from the Right Front Side Marker
>Light, but not the whole unit itself.  Where can I find this piece?  I've
>heard stories of a VW junkyard in near Orlando, but don't know what
>model/year VW to find this part.

Some parts are interchangeable with certain VW models (like the coolant
reservoir), but most are not. The side markers are typical to Audi and you
won't find them on any VW.

>	Was there a problem with the silver paint in 1987?  My car has many,
>many "freckles" on the hood, roof, and trunk.  What may have caused this
>and how can I fix it?

Looks like the clearcoat is peeling. There's no easy fix for this, I'm afraid.

>	I believe my car is a front wheel drive (Front-trak?), due to the
>absence of a driveshaft and rear differential.  

Good guess :-)

>What are the bars between
>the rear wheels called and is there any special maintenance back there
>that I need to keep up with?

It's called the "Panhard rod" and no special maintenance is needed.

>	The engine is mounted front-to-back, with the belts near the grille, but
>the driving wheels are the front wheels, how is this?  

Sorry, I can't see what's strange about it. The engine is mounted
longitudally and drives front wheels. The final drive is located between
the engine and the transmission. 

>I was always under
>the impression that an engine mounted in this manner was truning the rear
>wheels, and an engine postitioned laterally was driving the front axle.

Not true, there's fair number of cars which have engine installed in that
manner and front wheel drive

>OXS Light
>
>	I had this reset by my mechanic about 9k miles ago, but he told me it
>come on again.  Why?

On many older Audis the OXS light comes on after first 60k miles and when
it happens you are supposed to simply remove the bulb. The light is
activated by the odometer and doesn't tell you if the oxygen sensor is
actually working OK or not.

>Coolant Temp Sensor Gauge
>
>	Mine tends to rest on C for awhile, then jumps to the middle of the
>gauge, then stays there until the fan kicks on.  is this normal?  Should
>I be running cooler than this?

Sounds to me like the temp sender is acting up, the needle should not "jump".

>I appreciate any and all help anyone can give me.  It may seem like much
>now, but I've waited so long to find this kind of help.

You are welcome, good to see you on the list, BTW, you may want to check
out my 44 chassis FAQ at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/9715/faq.html

--
Aleksander Mierzwa
Warsaw, Poland
87 5KT