clutch slave cyl removal '86 5kQT

[Mike Arman <armanmik@n-jcenter.com>]

>From: "Bret Luter" <bretluter@hotmail.com>
>Subject: clutch slave cyl removal '86 5kQT 
>
>Can anyone share the secret to removing the clutch slave cylinder on my '86 
>5kQT??? I can clearly see where it mounts on top of the tranny case but I 
>cannot see how it is attached, no nuts, bolts, clips, nothing!  Someone 
>please help me with this so the car will be mobile once again!
>
>Thanks
>Bret Luter
>Raleigh, NC


Yes, there's a trick - jack up the right front of the car, remove the
wheel, take three or four extensions and stack them up, put a small round
punch in the end (3/8" square on one end, round on the business end),
remove the spring clip on the left side of the slave cylinder, drive out
the roll pin using the LONG punch you just assembled from your toolbox.

Possible errors:

1) punch too small, gets stuck inside roll pin: roll pin is hollow, slide a
common nail into the other side, tap the punch back out, use a larger punch.

2) punch not in correct position; it is possible to chip or even crack off
sections of the transmission bell housing by hammering too
enthusiastically. If the punch is placed correctly against the end of the
roll pin, it comes out surprisingly easily.

3) be careful not to break off the radiator top outlet whn you are laying
across the front of the car trying to get the old slave cylinder out
(fighting 15 years of grunge, sand, grit and caked-on crud (tm), or the new
one back in (fighting spring pressure).

4) Make SURE you use DOT-4 brake fluid - DOT-3 (or some brands of it) seems
to be incompatible with the seals in the clutch master and slave cylinders.
You don't want to do this again soon, do you?

Instead of putting the miserable roll pin back in, use a good, hard 6mm
bolt and a nylock self-locking nut when you put it back together. Next time
becomes MUCH easier!

Fill the new slave cylinder with DOT-4 brake fluid before you install it.
Put the hose on first to stop the dribbles. Pre-filling makes the bleeding
MUCH easier because most of the air is already out.

Pressure bleeding works best, pump-the-pedal bleeding (helper working bleed
screw) works second best (and it is VERY second best), be sure to keep the
reservoir full because the level goes down rapidly and after only a few
pumps you can get air into the system and have to start all over again.

Best Regards,

Mike Arman