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Re: E-Brake sticking



Fred,
>From your reply (partially quoted) it's not clear to me if would you agree
that there is much to be gained by replacing the OEM return springs with
stronger ones, as has been suggested by certain other listers. Presumably a
much stronger e-brake spring made by Ford (Germany) will fit our Girling
rear brakes (or so we're told). I'd hope that upgraded springs would
significantly reduce the frequency at which your useful procedure would
needed. Unfortunately, I've not yet been able to locate these springs on
this side of the Atlantic--with local Ford/Scorpio dealers claiming that
the European p/n is useless to them. I'm still hopeful--maybe with the help
of an overseas qlister.  :-)

Phil

>Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 22:08:50 -0400
>From: "Fred Munro" <munrof@isys.ca>
>Subject: Re: E-Brake sticking
>
>Hi Jay:
>
>    The most common cause of a sticky e-brake is bad cables. The cables rust
>in the sheath and create enough drag that the return springs can't back the
>pads off the disc.
>    To check, remove both cables from the e-brake arms on the rear calipers.
>Pull up on the e-brake lever (gently!) in the car and push it back down. You
>should be able to easily pull out the cables at the caliper end to their
>full extension. Chances are one (or both, or the main cable attached to the
>hand lever) is dragging. The fix is replacement of the bad cable(s).
>    While the cables are off the calipers, cycle the e-brake arms. They
>should return to the stops under the pressure of the return springs. If they
>do not, remove the springs and pry the arm up with a large screwdriver. The
>arm will pop up about 1/2", letting you get at the shaft with a strip of
>fine emery cloth. Clean up the rust on the shaft, polish it with a bit of
>crocus cloth, and lube it with a waterproof lube. Pop the arm back down. It
>should be free enough that it now returns to the stop without the aid of the
>return spring.


Phil Rose				Rochester, NY
'91 200q				mailto:pjrose@servtech.com
'89 100