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cooling



Haudi!

If you don't have a 7-blade fan yet, GET ONE (the fan is found on a -N
motor). Chris at Autobahn of New Hampshire (800.350.4590) occasionally gets
a few. Normal (Stages I and II) operation is MUCH quieter than with the
4-blade unit.

While you're changing the blade (a slight PITA to do w/o removing the
radiator/hyd pump, but it can be done if you're careful), pull the motor
and change the bearings (trade size 6001. Shielded is ok, but double-sealed
is better, for $0.40 more). My motor had 110k miles on it, and the brushes
were only about 15% used up. The wear item seems to be the two identical
bearings, which are $8-16 each depending on your source. Then as you
reassemble, connect a lug-mount mega-fuse ($4, 60-80 amps depending on
availability) between the ground wire and the fan's ground terminal. No
electrical connections need to be made/broken/crimped/soldered to add this
fuse. Support the fuse by zip-tying the wire to an ABS line or something.

I also added a latching relay to manually command Stage III fan mode
(mega-loud, even with the 7-blade; moves about 372k CFM). I effect this a
few minutes before getting home, and it cuts afterrunning from 10-15 (and
sometimes there's a second cycle) to 1-2 minutes.

New heater valve ($18), new *&$#@ afterrun pump ($120), Evans coolant
($52). Water pump/TB this weekend. Then all that's left is the heater core.

Cooling = A-OK.

cu, James
'87 4kq (alias "late-B2 90q")
'89 200q (K26, wood/8-gauge dash, torsen, aero handles, Procon10/no bag)
Boise, ID, USA     http://netnow.micron.net/~marriott