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Re: typ44TQ wheel bearing question, clutch pedal question



Sounds just like the wheel bearings on my 5kcstq, Chris, before they were
changed.  They got loud enough to make you turn up the radio before they
started to exhibit looseness if you jacked it up and shook the wheels.

The clutch behavior is the same I experienced before it got so you couldn't
get any clutch performance at all and  I changed the clutch master and
slave cylinders.  I found if I pulled the clutch pedal up to its normal
position and then pumped it, it would work for a while.  It got bad enough
while I waited for parts that I had to do the "pump-up" by hand.

Be sure you keep an eye on your brake fluid level (clutch MC/Slave are
supplied via a tap off the reservoir atop the brake MC).  There's an
outside possibility your brake fluid level went below the level of the
nipple for the clutch system and you sucked in some air.  If your brake
fluid is that low, you might try bleeding the clutch cylinders after
topping up.

Kneale Brownson


At 04:42 AM 8/11/99 -0400, JordanVw@aol.com wrote:
>while gradual turning to the left in my '86 5kTQ, i can hear a "rumbling" 
>noise in the RF wheel, that stops as i straighten out, or turn right.  it 
>only makes this noise when i bear to the left.  could this be a wheel 
>bearing? or something else?
>
>also, i recall someone was talking about this recently, but i didnt follow it 
>as i should have...  after the clutch pedal is depressed, it doesnt always 
>come all the way up. (halfway) sometimes i have to nudge it back up with the 
>top of my foot. any ideas as to what's causing this?  
>thanks in advance! :<)
>ps, the problem with the coolant light coming on for no reason -     well, it 
>"cured" itself after i cleaned/ put new connectors on the wires to the 
>multifunction temp sensor switch.. those boots at the bottom of those 
>switches - get rid of them - they just hold in moisture, and corrode your 
>wires...
>
>chris
>'86 5kT, TQ