RE: Spider Bite

["Peter Berrevoets" <peterb@mysysltd.com>]

Regarding the debate as to it's existence, I have to ask if this is possibly
a flaw in an aging system?  Does the torsen suffer from poor or old gear
oil, or wear caused by same?

"Power on" has definitely pulled me out of this on an on-ramp - wet
conditions, car started to push, pushed the pedal down - not sudden or
hard - but quickly, and had the front end track true.  More power then gave
me a four wheel drift to nicely finish the adrenaline rush that came on with
the first hint of understeer. That was my 200TQ, an A6Q (98 model) thrown
hard in a parking lot cone course managed a nice four wheel drift - neutral,
predictable and under power. Is this also a torsen in new condition or is
that haldex?

I know well the effect of simultaneous brake/throttle from my old Golf (RIP)
on the front wheel drive, but the power to TORque SENsing diff will send the
power rearwards and neutralize the effect of the breaking. (me-thinks)
Higher tire pressure at the back (or harder rubber compound) without
changing tire sizes should/might have the desired effect (nicely
demonstrated in RONIN) of power induced oversteer and/or the optimum for
all-wheel drive; four wheel drift/powerslide.

Stiffen the rear suspension and take traction ability away from the tires
(pressure/compound) and I would think a reduction on the u-o-u "spyder bite"
would be in order.

JMHO

Peter
1990 200TQ

-----Original Message-----
From: QSHIPQ@aol.com [mailto:QSHIPQ@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 1999 11:26 AM
To: peterb@mysysltd.com
Cc: quattro@audifans.com
Subject: Re: Spider Bite


In a message dated 9/20/99 10:48:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
peterb@mysysltd.com writes:

> Have you come up with a solution for reducing the "Spider Bite" - spring -
>  tire pressure - shock - 'sway' bar?
>

Prayer?  Not kidding either.  Both Jeff and I have had several offline
conversations regarding the "solution".  Without changing the device
internally, Jeff had the best idea of putting larger front tires on
(inducing
fwd behavior - slower turning front axle = more torque), but some concerns
over the wear of the internals keeps me from "recommending" that fix.

The real problem is that 56% of torque from one axle to another in a turn,
really is hard to "dial" out or "correct" with driver input.  The best luck
I've had in regaining control is catching the O (foot to the floor) in the
U-O cycle (works only on a track, and the timing has to be right) or
applying
both the brakes and the gas at the same time, best done with abs off.  I'm
still convinced we are speaking of luck here.  When you are beyond the
8/10ths window with a device that really fights all moves toward control,
luck and prayer are your saviors.  Graydon also suggested, drive right into
the apex, which may be the last resort and selectively applied, but also
might save your life, your car and those around you.

Best advice:  Go to a winter driving event, and play in the harmless world
of
snowbanks and open ice.  Identifying it is the first step, trying to control
it (for me many times at steamboat) really shows how hard it can be

HTH

Scott Justusson